Results 1 to 10 of 13
Thread: Honing a wedge
-
06-21-2014, 06:42 PM #1
- Join Date
- Mar 2013
- Posts
- 68
Thanked: 2Honing a wedge
Just after some quick input guys.
Honing a blunt edge on a wedge - do you tape? Or is the whole point making the whole blade the bevel in effect?
Ta
-
06-21-2014, 06:50 PM #2
- Join Date
- Jun 2007
- Location
- North Idaho Redoubt
- Posts
- 27,026
- Blog Entries
- 1
Thanked: 13245The way you worded that question really makes me want a pic of this razor a true wedge is very very very rare...
-
06-21-2014, 07:17 PM #3
- Join Date
- Mar 2013
- Posts
- 68
Thanked: 2Sorry bout the quality of pics. Did the best with my phone that I could. Don't know if it's a true wedge but I'm sure you can tell me ( I don't think it is though)
Note I've cleaned it up a little. Posted it on theshaving room but my password has gone funky and admin do t seem to want to help so here I'll stay.
Anyway, have taken to it with the wet and dry. Only gone to 600 grit so far. Not sure if I should go any further as the patina is everywhere and I'll probably have to remove tons of metal to get the putting out.
What do you guys think?
Faux ivory scale resin on its way so I can make some scales to match my old school huge barber shop brush from rod neep that will be in the same package. Can't wait.
-
06-21-2014, 07:35 PM #4
- Join Date
- Jun 2007
- Location
- North Idaho Redoubt
- Posts
- 27,026
- Blog Entries
- 1
Thanked: 13245Ok
No, not a "True Wedge" you can tell from the grind line at the heel or by putting the razor down on a flat surface and looking under there..
Many of these older razors are pretty hone worn by the time we get them, and become more "Wedgy" so you actually have 3 choices
1. Have the Razor re-ground, which of course corrects the geometry but is often not cost effective, nor does it keep the "Heavy" feel to the edge
2. Hone away on the stones, which of course gets to be real fun as you grind away that beautiful Sheffield steel
3. Add tape to correct the geometry back to as close to original as possible, there are actual calculations on how to figure this, me I have a simple system
One Layer of tape on everything
Two layers once the spine wear is over 1mm
Three layers once the spine wear hits 2mm
I don't really like more then three layers as it begins to feel mushy to me, but I just read about somebody using ten layers so I guess you can if you feel lucky
-
06-21-2014, 07:41 PM #5
- Join Date
- Mar 2013
- Posts
- 68
Thanked: 2Nice one dude. Will strap one bit of tape on it and give her a couple of strokes.
I know I can't maker all shiny, but I really want to make a good shaver out of her
-
06-21-2014, 07:43 PM #6
- Join Date
- Jun 2007
- Location
- North Idaho Redoubt
- Posts
- 27,026
- Blog Entries
- 1
Thanked: 13245If you start exactly as you said, and use a Marker to color the edge it will really give you an idea of where the bevel is at with just a few laps
Unless you are an experienced honer and can already read the scratch patterns very well and in that case I apologize
Hone on !!!!
-
06-21-2014, 07:45 PM #7
- Join Date
- Mar 2013
- Posts
- 68
Thanked: 2I said NICE ONE BRUVVA!
-
06-22-2014, 07:44 PM #8
- Join Date
- Mar 2013
- Posts
- 68
Thanked: 2ok guys,
practiced on another near wedge i have that was nice and cheap.
tried for ages to set the bevel with a 1k toshi ohishi, but no matter what i just couldn't get it to pop arm hair.
finally thought id try going up to the 3k, after 60 or so licks it started to just about shave arm hair
then on to 8k. after the same amount of licks, it didn't shave arm hair too badly.
after stropping on canvas and then leather, it shaved ok.
i shaved my head with it though, not my beard.
i could feel it starting ok, but needed stropping about 3 or 4 times to keep nice and sharp.
one layer of tape on the spine, was marking up the bevel at intervals, and made sure it was as even as possible all the way down.
i feel like I'm getting there, but whats the next step? would a 12k stone after the 8k help me remove the need for lots of stropping? I'm confused
ta
-
06-23-2014, 12:10 AM #9
I would say you need to slow down and take it easy. I think you need to just go back and set the bevel. You should be able to shave arm hair at the 1k level, wedge or not. Wedges take quite a while to hone. Thats why hollows are more popular. Don't move on to the next stone until you are positive that all the previous stones scratch marks are removed. Also that devils spit may be just on the surface and it may be deeper and which you could hone till the worlds end and never get a solid edge.
Oh yeah read Glens post about if your stuck in a honing rut.
http://straightrazorpalace.com/honin...bing-over.htmlLast edited by cosperryan; 06-23-2014 at 12:15 AM.
-
06-23-2014, 04:21 PM #10
- Join Date
- Mar 2013
- Posts
- 68
Thanked: 2thanks cosperryan, but i am honing a different razor to practice on. i will give the 1k another going over and slow down whilst I'm at it. will let you know how it goes