Thread: Honing my custom french point razor issue

Honestly the bevel is looking pretty darn good from what I see in the pics..

Just keep working it slow and steady try the Magic Marker and see how you are doing with the color contrast

Bevel set, draw it 3-4 times lightly on the corner of the stone, Re-set the bevel and repeat until you get it where you want..

But I like what I am seeing there

thanks for the encouragment. it will be nice when its shave ready all the way on the blade. explain the magic marker thing again. , mark it on the bevel ?

Yes just color both sides of the bevel (Black or Red are my goto colors)

Do a few light strokes on each side and see how your stoke is covering the bevel

thanks for the advice gssixgun. I will do the color test tonight . I wish I had a few days off to work on this . I am used to being patient though so no worries there. I just want to get a shave ready edge on the entire bevel . I will continue to dull, reset bevel, hone etc till I get it where I want it . apart from that I have been pleased with the process considering I don't have an expensive grinder and other tools , yet it still came out pretty nice . As I move along in the coming days I will continue to post pics of progress.

The first bevel on a new razor is very important, really the most important honing the razor will receive as you are setting the foundation. You are dealing with "corrective honing" all the way. The first honing can take hours & LOTS of tape. I normally use two layers of tape, replacing the top layer quite often as you wear through it. Pressure is your friend as you are grinding more than you are honing. So far it's looking good, just get those bevels right and even, the honing will follow quite nicely.

Looking good.

Ok , now you are making me think shooter . 2 layers of tape , pressure ? I guess questions I have are these. what grit to start with 220 or 1000 ? How much pressure ? and keep going till bevel is even and let the blade self correct ? The more details I can get the better understand you as this is all new info to me

A lot of guys will tell you don't go below 1k unless you are doing repairs like removing chips, others say never go below 1k. I have gone to 220 before but you are really removing metal pretty quick, it comes off quicker than you think and once its off you can't put it back. The 1k will take longer but you have more control on amount of metal being removed. I have killed the bevel on a razor several times before getting it even. As shooter said, once you get the bevel the way you want the rest of the honing falls into place. Bevel setting is the most important part of the honing process.

Just take your time, do it like shooter and Glen say and I believe you will have one fantastic shaver when you are finished, something to enjoy for many years down the road and be proud of.

well, you were correct. I went to 220 figuring to speed up the process and it took off a lot of metal, more than I would have liked . But still ok. I will try to hone it tonight to finish. I think the blade is ever so slightly warped causing the uneven hone wear. Still, a first razor for me that "should" actually work . haha ... And to think I have 2 more from heat treat that have yet to be finish ground. thanks to all for your advice . I have learned a lot . Can't wait to keep going .

Originally Posted by drmccubx

Ok , now you are making me think shooter . 2 layers of tape , pressure ? I guess questions I have are these. what grit to start with 220 or 1000 ? How much pressure ? and keep going till bevel is even and let the blade self correct ? The more details I can get the better understand you as this is all new info to me

May sound crazy, but think about this blade as a knife for just this and only this initial honing. You are still shaping the blade into a razor, so you can use pressure...but don't use enough to flex the steel. I work with my low grits like the dmt 325 and 500 shapton gs while shaping a rso into a razor. Multiple layers of tape help you get the geometry right & helps you to keep the rough grits off that spine, that's it. Once you have the bevels where you want and even on both sides, then hone it like a razor on 1K and one layer of tape.

Ok, Got the bevel where I think it can be . Not where i would ultimately like it to be but quite acceptable . took it to 1000, 4000, 8000, chromium oxide on the fabric strop , then onto the leather . Just shaved my neck "as i have a full beard now. and it shaved decently. I can see why people end up buying a 12000 grit or higher stone to really really polish the edge. I have learned so much and am still learning. But to actually shave with something i made . with so so equipment . Not bad . Not bad at all. Now here is to hoping i can get an awesome grinder some day to really polish up my work. thanks to all.