Thread: bevel setting & honing a wedge?

each to his own but I would call that a full wedge with some wear. I know it might not be perfect but even machinist have a plus or minus to there work.

Originally Posted by rhensley

each to his own but I would call that a full wedge with some wear. I know it might not be perfect but even machinist have a plus or minus to there work.

I would agree. I can't even sneek up on the written dimensions on the specs. I am usually +/-.002 with my machines, but their tied ol' iron workhorses from the 50's. I usually try to be over .004 and sand/polish to the finished dimensions, but usually end up minus the final size.
Never said I was good.

Originally Posted by lethalgraphix

Here is the best I can do with 2 hands, a camera, a straight edge, and a somewhat dull razor. And still focus.
It's pretty darn close.
I put a mic on some notebook paper and got .004896. So just under .005" stripped it into a 1/4" wide strip and I was able to get it between the blade and straight edge with some pushing and buckling.

No idea why the first pic is there but as you say from the other two pretty darn close but still no "no true wedge".

I think agent 86 covered that contingency.

Bob

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=sBlhrTpi69E

Originally Posted by BobH

No idea why the first pic is there but as you say from the other two pretty darn close but still no "no true wedge".

I think agent 86 covered that contingency.

Bob

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=sBlhrTpi69E

Someone mentioned about finish and length. I told them I was gonna post other pics in the thread this evening. Also to show the minimal spine wear.

LOL I tried to hone a worn blade to make a true wedge once. Oh it was so close and I just had to try. The end result was, WTheck was I thinking :<0)

I have an 8" contact wheel and it covers most blade profiles you might call a wedge. If I had 250 bucks worth of cans I would buy a 10" wheel and I think that would just about cover everything made. There is a fellow that does double hollow grinds and I noticed a platen that had a rather large radius to it. I suppose that may be how a modern maker could get very near TRUE wedge.

If you go and look at the "how they were made" videos and pictures of the old shops you will see rather large wheels grinding away at the old razor blanks. The radius of today's razors are forged right into the blanks. That radius, no matter how large in diameter makes it possible to hone the darn thing. This is why you see pictures of 16 or 18" wheels with pedals attached to them. Guys made a living regrinding those old blades so they could be honed again.

Wedge is a term. A true wedge makes no sense at all. If you doubt me, go grind a piece of bar stock to a wedge and try to hone it. I dare you !

Originally Posted by 10Pups

LOL I tried to hone a worn blade to make a true wedge once. Oh it was so close and I just had to try. The end result was, WTheck was I thinking :<0)

I have an 8" contact wheel and it covers most blade profiles you might call a wedge. If I had 250 bucks worth of cans I would buy a 10" wheel and I think that would just about cover everything made. There is a fellow that does double hollow grinds and I noticed a platen that had a rather large radius to it. I suppose that may be how a modern maker could get very near TRUE wedge.

If you go and look at the "how they were made" videos and pictures of the old shops you will see rather large wheels grinding away at the old razor blanks. The radius of today's razors are forged right into the blanks. That radius, no matter how large in diameter makes it possible to hone the darn thing. This is why you see pictures of 16 or 18" wheels with pedals attached to them. Guys made a living regrinding those old blades so they could be honed again.

Wedge is a term. A true wedge makes no sense at all. If you doubt me, go grind a piece of bar stock to a wedge and try to hone it. I dare you !

Nathan Carothers made a series of those convex platens to simulate wheel diameters of 24, 36, 48 and 72 inches, IIRC. I have the 36 and 72. You really have trouble seeing the hollow on the 72 and I have used it to do the curved clips on big bowies. The 36 is a bit more noticeable on blades the size of a wider razor, but still pretty darn subtle. The other thing that I have used them for is to do the very shallow hollowing midway up the blade bevels on what some call an "S" grind on a kitchen knife blade.

I have that exact JR razor. It is a near wedge... Jr are ground pretty well for Sheffield razors when they haven't been screwed too badly by a century plus of different ppl honing them. I would proceed as you normally would and it will just take more time than you are used to. Maybe magic marker it at first and hit a lighter grit just to dip your toe in and see how each side is meeting the hone and adjust accordingly. If anything, I find them easy to hone, just time consuming.

Originally Posted by kcb5150

I have that exact JR razor. It is a near wedge... Jr are ground pretty well for Sheffield razors when they haven't been screwed too badly by a century plus of different ppl honing them. I would proceed as you normally would and it will just take more time than you are used to. Maybe magic marker it at first and hit a lighter grit just to dip your toe in and see how each side is meeting the hone and adjust accordingly. If anything, I find them easy to hone, just time consuming.

I'll giver it ago. I'm waiting for my C12k whetstone to arrive, then I'll start the madness.