Thread: Honing Issues

Originally Posted by jfk742

Just follow the warp when you hone, no reason to cause unnecessary hone wear. Rolling x on the one side regular x on the other. You may need to spend a little time getting the bevel even on the one wonky side if it is really bothering you, otherwise leave it, as long as you haven't worked a frown into it.

I suppose if I tried to get rid of the warp it would end up looking a rite mess.
I think I need to practice doing a rolling x with no pressure whilst moving slurry

I'm not entirely sure on this but I think it is not standard practice to remove a warp. Usually it's not huge, most razors have some imperfections in that sense, it's just a matter of scale.

I wouldn't get caught up too much on the pressure issue either, particularly if there's a bit of the bevel that hasn't been hit much previously. A bit of pressure is likely going to help you with this honing, at least initially when making sure the bevel is set along the entire edge. After that you can go lighter on the pressure.

Good luck.

James.

Originally Posted by JOB15

I just did that table top test and the blade rocks , it is warped.

A perfectly in line smiling blade will rock on a flat surface. Just rocking doesn't mean that there is a warp.

Originally Posted by Jimbo

I'm not entirely sure on this but I think it is not standard practice to remove a warp. Usually it's not huge, most razors have some imperfections in that sense, it's just a matter of scale.

I wouldn't get caught up too much on the pressure issue either, particularly if there's a bit of the bevel that hasn't been hit much previously. A bit of pressure is likely going to help you with this honing, at least initially when making sure the bevel is set along the entire edge. After that you can go lighter on the pressure.

Good luck.

James.

I think all my blades have a slight warp here n their but I suppose that's what makes honing interesting.

If the warp is minor you can grind away till it's gone & you will have spine wear & an uneven looking bevel or you can follow the warp but will still have some wear to show for it.
I think warped razors are one of the reasons people use pressure on parts of the blade & promote frowns.
Either way it's a PITA.

Pic below showing high & low spots on warped blade.

Originally Posted by onimaru55

If the warp is minor you can grind away till it's gone & you will have spine wear & an uneven looking bevel or you can follow the warp but will still have some wear to show for it.
I think warped razors are one of the reasons people use pressure on parts of the blade & promote frowns.
Either way it's a PITA.

Pic below showing high & low spots on warped blade.

That's what I was wondering, how it would look. Its a toss up between ascetics and ease of honing.
I'd have to think about that.
How did you hone it down, on a dmt , with circles or x's or both?
Thanks for the picture.

I have a De Pews with a stupid warp; I just work WITH it. I simply look to see what part of the blade is touching the stone and work from there...

Originally Posted by carlmaloschneider

I have a De Pews with a stupid warp; I just work WITH it. I simply look to see what part of the blade is touching the stone and work from there...

I suppose the thing that gets to me is when the tip wont touch the hone.
I can lift the heel end and the very edge still wont hit the hone.
The only way to get that part of the edge on the hone is with say finger pressure and or torque and on finishing stones I don't want any pressure.
I also worry that my pressure will take too much metal away.

I normally end up with what I did the other day.
A perfect blade taken through the jnat nagura progression . Looks amazing under the scope and shave like it too.
However the last 3-4 mm of the tip isn't quite there and I need that very tip to get the few hairs at the top of the filtrum under the nose.

With a blade that has a warp/twist I use a heel forward rolling X stroke. I always use tape but that makes no difference to what the rolling X stroke is doing to the bevel. Can be done with or without tape. Why go the the effort of grinding both the spine and edge down to try and eliminate the warp/twist?

Bob

Originally Posted by BobH

With a blade that has a warp/twist I use a heel forward rolling X stroke. I always use tape but that makes no difference to what the rolling X stroke is doing to the bevel. Can be done with or without tape. Why go the the effort of grinding both the spine and edge down to try and eliminate the warp/twist?

Bob

I hear you Bob.
Another mistake I now know I've been making is doing a rolling x toe first.
I'll have a session tonight and see what I can do.