Thread: Honing Issues

Originally Posted by JOB15

I hear you Bob.
Another mistake I now know I've been making is doing a rolling x toe first.
I'll have a session tonight and see what I can do.

Not trying to be a smart azz, but I am having a hard time picturing doing it that way. Just seems like it would be so uncomfortable doing it that way. Good luck with the session tonight.

Bob

Just an afterthought to be clear then. The blade should be at about a 30 degree angle heel forward not straight across the hone.

Originally Posted by BobH

Not trying to be a smart azz, but I am having a hard time picturing doing it that way. Just seems like it would be so uncomfortable doing it that way. Good luck with the session tonight.

Bob

Just an afterthought to be clear then. The blade should be at about a 30 degree angle heel forward not straight across the hone.

Just did a 7/8ths 1/4 hollow with a slight warp.
By the time I'd gotten to the Koma I had nailed that rolling x, one handed and not too slow. I normally hone fast so I'm sure over time ill get better at it.
For the first time I managed to hit the whole of the blade along the very edge and doing it with a slurry was fine. Going for pressure on the 1k to no pressure was fine too.
I'd call it a success
I've also left out the suede, maybe just use that between shaves to clean the edge. And very light stroke on the leather to protect that fine edge.. Its popping tree top hairs a treat.

Toe first is craziness.
I have no excuse now , especially with the tools at my disposal ..

I just honed another blade.
It looks like the rolling x will be my most valuable stroke now.
Thanks ..

Originally Posted by JOB15

How did you hone it down, on a dmt , with circles or x's or both?

Ha! To quote Ollie North "I have no recollection of that" It was about 5 years ago.

Originally Posted by BobH

With a blade that has a warp/twist I use a heel forward rolling X stroke. I always use tape but that makes no difference to what the rolling X stroke is doing to the bevel. Actually tape makes the bevel smaller depending on how many layers you use so whilst not correctig any geometry you can lessen the visual impact. Can be done with or without tape.

Why go the the effort of grinding both the spine and edge down to try and eliminate the warp/twist?
You're already dealing with prior wear rather than deliberately creating it. Inevitable that the wear will show up especially on old wedges. As I said earlier I believe misground razors are a major contributor to frowns in old razors. If it's a brand new razor,well, why not claim your warranty.

"Actually tape makes the bevel smaller depending on how many layers you use so whilst not correctig any geometry you can lessen the visual impact" Yes tape does effect the width of the bevel but I meant using tape or not has no effect on how the stroke is carried out.

Bob