Curious to know about honing the Orihi. Could you please tell us more?
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Just like honing any Kamisori. I am not a stickler for how many times per side. I usually start with 10:1 Omote:ura and just as I go bring it closer down till I get to about 3:1 and even 1:1 for last few. These are just really old versions made by old sword smiths I believe. You don't see them too much either. I tried to figure out the kanji, but even with the help of the masters here didn't get to much. Could be old out dated kanji. Best info on these comes from Fikira on here. Here is a post and part way down a link to his page with more info on these. http://straightrazorpalace.com/razor...-kamisori.html
I am vaguely familiar with them, I do know the basics. Kanji can be outdated, yes, I read this somewhere. They are fascinating instruments, although seemingly primitive to my eyes. I wasn't really sure about the construction, so thanks for responding and making that clear!
Id definitely like an Oriho at some point. They look like fun to hone.
They are quite fun to hone. Finding one in good condition at a good price is more difficult. These are the only Kamisori I have ever used. I have not tried the more modern style. I always wanted Anatou, or mimizori for cutting of downy hair in the ear too, but using it on yourself seems dangerous. I think they were for barbers to use on others.
Yeah, that takes us back to the argument whether kamisori were designed just to be by barbers.
That is part of the fun of shaving with these. Figuring out how to shave all over again. I am still trying for a Anatou making offers on them. I figure I can use it to get into the tight spaces of the goatee and sculpt it better. I do pretty good with the Orihi and regular straights too though. I just wouldn't want to stick it in my ear since you can't see at all.
On vacation and a little bored, time for some Thuri touch ups on the Nishikaku 6/8 hollow, Koraat 8/8 half hollow and Giesen & Forsthoff Timor 7/8 full hollow. Happy honing!
http://i.imgur.com/usWUh3i.jpg
Wow! I just read through a few Google hits, and found one on the Bay.... very interesting looking tool. I probably wouldn't stick it in my ear, but I get how it could be convenient to maintain a goatee. Hehe, you learn something new every day!
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Carborundum stones are pretty bad for razors unless they're really fine. Their cut depth is more suitable for high speed steel or something that doesn't fracture.
I've not used one on a razor, but I learned a lesson about them with a Kiyotada chisel. Kiyotadas were sought after in japan for a while (still are to some point), but some of them are not as similar in hardness as you'd expect (I have three). The one of mine that is really hard will literally not tolerate having its bevel set on carborundum stones - diamonds would be out of the question. When you work the bevel on carborundum, it looks fine, and then somewhere around the final stone, it crumbles. I'd estimate the chisel to be somewhere in the 66 range, which a lot of japanese tools claim, but I haven't found to be true when trading time on a versitron (some can be sharpened on arkansas stones, too, which means they definitely aren't close to that).
Anyway, that creates an issue where the steel is too hard to sharpen easily on natural stones, but it won't tolerate anything other than slower synthetics. I got by with an india, but have been careful with the chisel not to damage anything.
totally different thing, though. Japanese carpenters didn't want to be seen sharpening a tool on a job site, so they wanted their tools to be as hard as possible, even though it made sharpening a lot harder. Some english craftsmen did that, too, taking several chisels and plane irons to work (instead of seeing if they could push one all day) and then resharpening them at night while they weren't on the job.
Long useless story, but agree - carborundum and crystolon stones in the coarse variety are a no-no (they are friable, too, when they're new), and when they're fine, I don't know what they are accomplishing on razors, because they cut deep tiny grooves - so they're not fast, but you have to make a lateral move to a slower/shallower cutting stone around the same grit level before you can move up.
Did I mention that I have about 10 carborundum stones? I got them in a machinists lot and found out quickly why so many of the old ones show up without much use, despite the fact that they cost about the same amount as a washita back then. The coarse ones did get used in shops and jobsites, though - but a washita or india stone usually followed them.
https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/201...b56e86f1be.jpg
Last night's refresh and let me tell ya, the barber's notch portion on the toe, does just fine on those few annoying nose hairs peeking out [emoji23]
Here is my honing for the week.
• A 7-day set of Mappin & Webb in a crocodile skin case with Ivory scales.
• An old Holley
• The kitchen knife is a Flint Vanadium blade that took an amazing edge with the exact same stones.
The Norton reversible hone has a lily white on one side and an India stone on the other. The Lily White cuts faster than my soft and leaves an edge finer than my Hard Ark. They were then finished on my Norton Translucent. All blades took under 15 minutes each from bevel set to shave ready.
I am really excited about this reversible stone. Loving it.
I agree that that subgroup works, but I've had a couple of those and always felt like they were marginal in the world of razor hones. But you're right, there's a huge difference between them and the stones intended for tools. The abrasive itself is a friable abrasive that breaks and stays sharp, but that means it cuts aggressively, even if you can clog it (and makes for a lot of loose particles if the stone is friable). It'd probably be different if they could've made one of those out of 1/2 micron particles.
Nice hones, Steel. I'm going to be getting more into Arkansas honing, just ordered a black from Dans. Also, I have a Holley similar to that one with the metal cap on the end of the scales, mine's a near wedge though. One of my favorites.
Thanks. That old Norton reversible is a really neat attempt at some technology "back in the day". It flips within the box and opens either way.
I have a couple more Holley's with the end cap. One is a true wedge and one is a near wedge restored by Karlej. So I think the one pictures above was probably re-ground at some point. They are some excellent razors with hand forged steel (every last one of them). Congrats on the new hones too!
More JNAT testing:
Razor: Filarmonica Novodur & Tanifuji Maxfli
2-Stone Progression:
Bevel reset: Shapton 8K Glass with light DN slurry
Finisher: Unmarked JNAT with Kiita tomo ? ( looks Kiita )
Strop: Kanayama
Attachment 271326
Chosera/Pro 1-5-10 to get them all in line
Gotta love me some minty LeGerlot razors finished on my Blue/Green Escher
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Old Turner near wedge that needed a Bumpity Bump bevel smoothed out first,, then took a sweet Coticule edge
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Hone on gents
CT Bingham Tally Ho, just got back together.
1k,2k,5k,8k kuromaku and finished on 12k naniwa ss. This razor honed so nice and easy. Nice tight bevel and soon shall see how she shaves. https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/201...dae020f115.jpghttps://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/201...e7fbab01c8.jpg
Time to bring back the edge on the DePew. 10 laps on a Catty #9 then a few hundred on my baby Nakayama Asagi.
https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/201...7206d5fd26.jpg
Got these ready for a test shave. 1K Green Brick thru 12K Naniwa.
ERN, Second Choice 5/8.
Merit Custom. Saved it from broken blade and cracks. Now Solid 3/8.
Attachment 271492
Had this NOS vintage blank 13/16ths for a while and I was getting kinda desperate to try it out.
The original plastic scales broke whilst unpinning (drat).
Today I took these ugly plastic scales from a broken blade and it all came together.
I gave the blade a bevel on the Chosera 1k and when I was satisfied I did the old 5/10k .. 16k.. Escher progression .
The bevel is the smallest I've seen and it pops hairs with a nice sound effect..
Now I just need some facial hair and its a go.
I might give this one away to a friend but I will have to force myself to do that, I know I can do it :)
Attachment 271517
A 7 day set of Kampf lather catchers one layer of tape on holder frog. Blades have to be flipped to assure consistent coverage. Bevel set w/ Chosera 1K
http://i.imgur.com/clsra0k.jpg
Move to natural stones to settle the edge down. Unknown lower grit natural, could be a Chinese stone that was supposed finisher but is not.
http://i.imgur.com/3GAW61i.jpg
Unknown J-nat very fast cutter and refiner.
http://i.imgur.com/YY91tQO.jpg
Unknown oil stone, Fast like La Lune but finer.
http://i.imgur.com/74VAQED.jpg
K 70000 strop 100 laps. 7 blades= 700 laps.
http://i.imgur.com/tRkSzB6.jpg
Disinfect w/ Barbicide. Andis Cool Care Plus work good too. Much work w/ wet hands and very sharp edges. Have a nice day.
Mike
http://i.imgur.com/wly2bZk.jpg
I got this particular friend onto DE razors some years ago. He shaves with the razor and just water.
Any kind of cream or soap has a bad effect on his skin.
It would make a nice gift for him , I would have to get him a strop as well.
He is always on the razor look out for me so I suppose I should pay my employees :)
Attachment 271642Attachment 271643
Two Hart razors
Alex's air raid shelter jnats
Unknown kiita
Unknown koppa
Testing different tomo nagura
These Hart razors are hard but these two jnats performed so well at finishing them up for a couple of great shaves!
My day is filled with pure Japanese goodness it doesn't get any better for me with these three on the hones.
http://i.imgur.com/07p9YrK.jpg
As my testing continues with some JNAT finishers:
Razor: Filarmonica Novodur & Tanifuji Maxfli
2-Stone Progression:
Bevel reset: Shapton 8K Glass with light DN slurry
Finisher: Nakayama Kiita with pre-fininsh tomo followed with Kiita like tomo
Strop: Westholme Cordovan
Attachment 271678
Oozuku tomae with tenjyou and tomo. Razor is a puma
Attachment 271679
Attachment 271723
Couple of early production Portland Razor company 8/8 artisan series blades that really needed bevel set and up. They really do have very large bevels, it took a pretty long while to work through the progression. However the jnat part was very enjoyable!!!
Shapton Pro 2k, 5k and 8k
Shapton glass 16k
Unknown kiita
https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/201...cebee2dbb3.jpg
Koma officially enters.... but I think I could have honed this razor on a flat piece of curb as well, and it would still take an amazing edge. [emoji14]
Again as i continue to test, this is going to be my last test with the pre finisher ( Koma like ) before using the Nakayama tomo. my next and last outing will be with a soft nagura followed by the Nakayama tomo.
Razor: Tanifuji Maxfli / Filarmonica Novodur
2-Stone Progression:
Bevel reset: Shapton 8K Glass with light DN slurry
Finisher: Unmarked JNAT with Koma like pre-finisher and then Nakayama Tomo
Strop: Kanayama 70
Attachment 271774
Touched up this Hargreaves, Smith & Co. on a thuringian with light slurry. I've been focused a lot on coticules lately and wanted to switch it up a little here. This is a rather plain looking thuringian but it's a wonderful hone. Soft silky smooth feel on the light slurry.
Attachment 271817
Yo !! What's up with the orange tape? :shrug:
Somebody just has to be special . :rolleyes:
;)
I had a whole log of the stuff, I think it's like 10 or 12 rolls! :cool:
Small unknown hone (I'd guess nakayama, but I'd like to see the skin and it's mounted). Generic Koma nagura and then tomonagura from a stone that I received that had been broken before and reglued (but not mentioned by the seller!!), and broke again in transit. Whoever had this small hone originally really felt that it needs a large base, not sure if I'll cut it or leave it.
Fried. Dennert razor, the second razor I ever bought and it's never been outdone by any that I've had since. Masterfully ground with a very small bevel, and pin straight.
Not a great picture, but it will be a great shave. Picture of the edge, looks scratchy, but my microscope is lit such that it never misses those scratches. The edge tells the actual story (shown after stropping). Lay a hair on it two inches away and it will sever it when you give it a tug in any direction, front to back and from either side. Attachment 271956
Attachment 271957