Thread: Harsh edge

I've been tinkering with my Germany Cutlery Works razor. It had a harsh edge and kinda didn't want to cut hair so I dulled the edge on the 1k, brought the bevel back, then ran it through the 4k, 8k, and hit it with a Swaty barber hone. I think I may have compounded the problem rather than fixing it! I think part of it was because I only stropped it 10 times on linen and 20 on leather. The other part of the problem may be too many passes on the barber hone.

I checked the edge under a 60x loupe. No chips that I can detect, and the scratch pattern is the smallest I've seen yet. From where I sit this should be the sharpest edge I've produced, but somehow it just fails to perform. I stropped the stuffing out of it hoping to make the edge smoother, 50 linen 100 leather. We'll see how it shaves in a few days I guess, but I have a feeling I'll be taking it back to the hones.

That brings me to my question - how far back should I take it if the problem is overhoning? 8k? 4k?

Personally I would kill it lightly, as in a light pass over a fingernail and go to the 4K. If it is over honing or micro chipping that should take the edge off and get you going again with the least amount of metal consumed. Overhoning can sometimes have a weak fin that folds easily in which case t would need a harder kill like on the edge of a hone, so I guess the correct answer is likely found using a loupe to look before you leap.

Are you sure you set the bevel fully after dulling on the 1k? You might have killed it more than you think ,like I have done a few times. I would go back to the 1k and do some light passes and shave some arm hair.

I'm pretty confident the edges are meeting and the bevel is set properly. I spent a lot of time on the 1k before moving on because I wanted to be sure it was right.

The Swaty may not have improved the 8k edge. That may especially be the case if you did too many strokes--like more than 10. How many did you do? Try dropping back down to the 8k and doing another 10 strokes on that. Then strop 10-20 strokes on linen and 50-100 on leather and test shave. Absent magnified observation, I would repeat that a couple times before dropping down to the 4k. Only when you have it shaving properly off of the 8k should you bother trying to improve the edge with the Swaty, which may or may not improve your 8k edge.

Are you using tape?

If the razor initially failed to cut properly, all you had to do was set the bevel. I really don't get this recent fad of dulling the edge before sharpening the edge. It's like breaking your leg as a first step for training for a marathon. Whether you dull the edge or not you ultimately have to end up with a properly set bevel.

I have one of those razors, and they are terrific shavers when honed well. Like you, I had trouble with mine at first! Make absolute certain that you reset the bevil and start over. I took mine to 12k and then followed with a Crox pasted strop to finish honing, and then did 100 laps on my latigo strop and it started to be a great shaver

If it's not cutting hair it's a bevel issue. I've shaved with 1k bevel set if only just prove to myself that that is the key. No reason for me to move to the next hone until the edge easily takes off arm hair at the skin along the entire edge, but that's just my own "test" to make sure the bevels are set. Another thing I try to do that gets me really comfortable edges is treating the last 10 strokes or so on any given hone in my progression like I'm trying to finish the edge. Super light and consistent. Doing that helps ensure that I'm not leaving really deep stria in my bevel which if left unchecked, can be a micro chip in the finished edge and result in an uncomfortable shave.

If you see any scratches larger than your scratch pattern on the bevel it's usually a good indication that you didn't spend enough time on the current hone. Don't move on until the scratch pattern is entirely consistent. Pressure will also leave scratches that are deeper. So if you're sure that all the scratches from the previous hone are out but are still getting the occasional deeper stria, try less pressure.

I'm pretty confident the edges are meeting and the bevel is set properly.


Yup, bet you a dollar, the bevel is not set… it’s not overhoning.

How are you determining the bevel is set?

Look straight down on the edge with magnification, if you see any shiny spots… the bevel is not set. Then move up.

Here is a good video on how to check the bevel visually.

Originally Posted by Utopian

If the razor initially failed to cut properly, all you had to do was set the bevel. I really don't get this recent fad of dulling the edge before sharpening the edge. It's like breaking your leg as a first step for training for a marathon. Whether you dull the edge or not you ultimately have to end up with a properly set bevel.

+1,,,

I may have only needed to go to the 8K or maybe the 4K but I am going to make sure that I have to go to the 1K.

I see nothing recent about it. There are threads about it going back a long long way. It is not an alien topic at all. It is kind of like taping, some do and some don't.