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Thread: Setting bevel
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01-06-2016, 05:42 AM #31
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01-06-2016, 06:29 AM #32
- Join Date
- Dec 2015
- Location
- Calgary
- Posts
- 43
Thanked: 3I think it was the first time I was looking into getting a Yanagiba, something I read explained the bevelled side as having a double bevel, but it's really a primary and secondary bevel that blend to make one big curved bevel:
(from: Bevel angel for Takobiki or yanagiba? 300 ish mm)
For those scratching their heads over another puzzling Japanese word - Hamaguriba is the term for the continuous slight curve of the primary bevel.
It curves all the way to the edge, with no actual secondaries. This is often called a Moran grind, or the old Japanese term - Appleseed grind.
It is formed by making small flats as you sharpen/shape the bevel on the stones. Each flat is "blended" into the next one until the bevel looks like a smooth surface. When it meets the edge, it ends as a zero-grind. This technique was very important in shaping Japanese swords and knives made from the traditional billets with a hard edge and soft body. The steel sharpens very differently depending on the carbon content, and blending them together improved both ascetics and performance.
I find hamaguriba not a necessity in modern Japanese kitchen blades when using modern grinders and steels. The final edge seems to take care of itself when doing the final sharpening steps ( shiage-togi) by lifting the spine as you stroke the last few times on the edge. Some use a mouse pad backing on super-fine papers to get this effect.
Using a Rotary platen also creates a slight curvature of the bevel, quite similar to hamaguriba.
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01-06-2016, 07:09 AM #33