Thread: Minimum kit for honing SRs

Originally Posted by SirMike

I would think you would want a 1k for bevel setting or heavy metal removing if repairing. Pair that with a Norton 4k/8k and a finisher like an ILR (only about $40) and you should be all set.

This may be a silly question, but the 1K...could you use 1K wet/dry sandpaper on a firm base, e.g. glass or granite? If it s just to remove metal and square things up...

Originally Posted by Whizbang

This may be a silly question, but the 1K...could you use 1K wet/dry sandpaper on a firm base, e.g. glass or granite? If it s just to remove metal and square things up...

the 1K is used to set the bevel, and it really is the cornerstone of your honing lineup. If you don't get things right at the bevel, you're going to have a devil of a time with everything beyond that. Bevels CAN be set with the Norton 4K, or the Naniwa 3K, but you may also be at it for a while depending on how far off your razors are and what your skill level is. Which is why I suggested picking up a 1K hone. I guess it could be done with sand paper but I figure by the time you've successfully set the bevel on 3 to 4 razors, you'll have burned through enough that you could've bought a King twice over. Sand paper really isn't as economical as it used to be.

Originally Posted by Marshal

the 1K is used to set the bevel, and it really is the cornerstone of your honing lineup. If you don't get things right at the bevel, you're going to have a devil of a time with everything beyond that. Bevels CAN be set with the Norton 4K, or the Naniwa 3K, but you may also be at it for a while depending on how far off your razors are and what your skill level is. Which is why I suggested picking up a 1K hone. I guess it could be done with sand paper but I figure by the time you've successfully set the bevel on 3 to 4 razors, you'll have burned through enough that you could've bought a King twice over. Sand paper really isn't as economical as it used to be.

Good advice...thanks. I think because I am relying on antique store SRs...even though most are in good condition, a 1K stone is worth the investment.

Originally Posted by Whizbang

This may be a silly question, but the 1K...could you use 1K wet/dry sandpaper on a firm base, e.g. glass or granite? If it s just to remove metal and square things up...

I would think you can but I personally haven't tried it. I do use wet/dry sandpaper to flatten stones though!

Naniwa specialty SS 1k,3k,8k,12k
Total of 208$ after 10% discount for buying three or more stones if you order from a certain website, PM if you ant to know, not sure if I can post a link here.

Just

Originally Posted by Whizbang

This may be a silly question, but the 1K...could you use 1K wet/dry sandpaper on a firm base, e.g. glass or granite? If it s just to remove metal and square things up...

No.

Originally Posted by Euclid440

Shure, if you are not doing a lot of major repair work, 1k paper would be fine.

And don’t turn your nose up at Garage Sale, Washitas and Carborundums the 100 series.

1k paper would NOT "be fine." Lots of beginners have destroyed lots of edges on sandpaper.

Only SOME Carborundums are appropriate for razors.

Originally Posted by SirMike

I would think you can but I personally haven't tried it. I do use wet/dry sandpaper to flatten stones though!

You cannot. The amount of repair work needed to repair the edge makes it pointless. If you need to set bevels on purchased razors, then a 1k hone should be your first investment and you might as well make it a good one.

Found this while browsing about a moment ago, thought it might be relevant and worth checking out:

http://straightrazorpalace.com/video...ideo-lynn.html

Edit: You really don't need anything higher grit than this. I would advocate getting this and some sort of 1K hone. You can lap them on sand paper and be good for a while because that really isn't something you should need to do daily anyway. After watching that video I'm inclined to think even the 1K may be optional, but you won't regret having one I assure you. I've gotten 2 weeks of close, clean and comfortable shave off just this stone.

10K, 12K, 16K, 20K and 30K stones, Pasted strops and lapping films, Thuringians/eschers, Jnats, Zulu Greys, Apache reds, Black Gilas, Welsh slates and even PHIGs aren't necessary. They are nice, but if you can't get a good shave off the 8k you're peeing up a rope trying to hone further than that anyway. That's why I put my PHIG, Welsh Slates, and barber hones away for the passed month and focused on JUST the Norton 1/4/8k stones.

For me somehow the finisher always became the focus. Whether I was working on the 1k, 4k, or 8k my mind was really on what I was going to do different with the PHIG or the slate or the barber hone, and not on getting it right on the stone I was working on. This led to a lot of missed chips that should've been cleaned up, and finely polished bevels that weren't set. Really the focus should be first and foremost getting the bevel set. You can actually shave half decent off a 1K stone, there's a thread dedicated to that as well. I wouldn't do this again, but trying it was quite educational.

It looks like we have a general consensus: a 1K stone and a 4/8 stone...and a strop. Thank you everyone for your sage advice.

This is a really timely thread. I have a Norton "starter set" on the way from Amazon. With a coupon, I spent just a little over $100 to get a 220/1K, a 4K/8K, and a flattening stone. I also ordered a 40x loupe. I already have a pasted balsa strop from Whipped Dog that I have used with some success. I'm looking forward to getting it all in hand, and then meeting up with some experts at the Denver meetup in July. Can't wait.

$35 for a CNTG 400/1,000 diamond plate, to lap the stone with and you are set for life.