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Thread: Honing a pair of Wade & Butcher Wedges

  1. #31
    At this point in time... gssixgun's Avatar
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    Did you by chance Breadkinfe / Dull the edge for restoration ??

    and

    Yes you can always add tape to try and get a bevel, what you have to be cautious of is an extreme angle that will not give a comfortable shave, and also the tape starts to get squishy after 3 layers

    If the bevel pops really easy at the 5 layers, then you can always hone and subtract a layer at a time after you get the solid bevel set..

    The real trick is to walk away from it, hone for a while, go do something else then hone some more, but I would not advise sitting there and grinding away at it for too long nothing good comes of that
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  2. #32
    Senior Member blabbermouth RezDog's Avatar
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    I always lighten up on the pressure as the bevel gets closer to finished. Too much pressure near the end of the 1K leaves me staying on the 1K because I am always not quite there. Basically at this stage as long as you are still moving water in front of the blade there is enough pressure that you are honing, as soon as you start to have water slip under the blade you have not quite enough pressure. When my bevel is close it will under cut the water with almost no pressure. You might want to do a little no pressure honing tomorrow and see how it goes.
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  3. #33
    Senior Member ChopperDave's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by gssixgun View Post
    LOL No Prob happy to help

    In fact anyone that has been at a meet up will tell you "Getting Glen to talk about Razors Hones and Honing is never a problem, getting him to shut up on the other hand can be difficult"
    If Glenn gets too chatty, just give him a beer and a garlic knot.
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  4. #34
    Senior Member Johntoad57's Avatar
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    Well I'm excited! I'm finally able to pop arm hair at 1K. The diamond hone did the trick (I think). So I'm going to lighten the pressure a little, make a few more passes and move up to the 8K. Get back with you tomorrow!
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    Semper Fi !

    John

  5. #35
    Senior Member blabbermouth RezDog's Avatar
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    When you use a diamond hone or DMT for removing material for the bevel, it leaves very deep stria on the bevel and it is commonly believe that it leads to chipping at the higher grits if the stria are not completely removed before moving up from the 1K. Also, do you have a hone between the 1K and the 8K. If not it is still doable to get a nice shaving edge, it just takes a little longer.
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  6. #36
    At this point in time... gssixgun's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by Johntoad57 View Post
    Well I'm excited! I'm finally able to pop arm hair at 1K. The diamond hone did the trick (I think). So I'm going to lighten the pressure a little, make a few more passes and move up to the 8K. Get back with you tomorrow!
    Awesome,,

    Once the bevel comes together you are almost there, basically you are at the same place you were in the past with honing you Hollow Ground razors..
    The real difference between difficult razors and easy razors is in the setting of the bevel

    As Shaun mentioned already, you might need to refine the bevel a little more to take out and deep stria from the Diamonds if I read that right ..

    Wasn't sure if you used the Diamonds on the bevel or the 1k hone I read both ideas above

  7. #37
    Senior Member Johntoad57's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by gssixgun View Post
    Awesome,,

    Once the bevel comes together you are almost there, basically you are at the same place you were in the past with honing you Hollow Ground razors..
    The real difference between difficult razors and easy razors is in the setting of the bevel

    As Shaun mentioned already, you might need to refine the bevel a little more to take out and deep stria from the Diamonds if I read that right ..

    Wasn't sure if you used the Diamonds on the bevel or the 1k hone I read both ideas above
    Hey Glen - I'm noticing something odd here. My stones are giving out quickly. Is it just the characteristics of a wedge to have hard steel like this? The only thing that cuts this steel is the diamond stones and it is wearing them out quickly. I stopped using my 8K because it wasn't really doing anything except wear out the stone.
    Is this normal? Please advise...
    Semper Fi !

    John

  8. #38
    At this point in time... gssixgun's Avatar
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    That older Sheffield razors tend to have softer steel, which will clog the stones faster, you might need to clean them a bit more often to keep exposing the cutting grit..
    Honestly until those two sides of the bevel come together into a sharp > you need to keep cutting steel..

    This razor seems to have started out REALLY dull, is the marker test still working ??? is it keeping a even consistent cut ???
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  9. #39
    Senior Member Johntoad57's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by gssixgun View Post
    That older Sheffield razors tend to have softer steel, which will clog the stones faster, you might need to clean them a bit more often to keep exposing the cutting grit..
    Honestly until those two sides of the bevel come together into a sharp > you need to keep cutting steel..

    This razor seems to have started out REALLY dull, is the marker test still working ??? is it keeping a even consistent cut ???
    It was really dull. I don't think you could have cut butter with it. The marker test is going well and is cutting evenly. I'm going to clean the stones after say 50 passes and see if that helps. With the diamond stones the water on the hone is dark, really dark after about 20 passes and you can see the residue from the steel.
    It being Sunday, a day of rest, I haven't honed any today. Will start again tomorrow. I keep working at this. Sooner or later we'll get this to the shave ready state!
    Semper Fi !

    John

  10. #40
    Senior Member Johntoad57's Avatar
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    Here's the before and after of this razor. When I got it, it was in terrible shape. I'm trying to give it a new life
    Name:  IMG_0358.jpg
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    Semper Fi !

    John

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