Thread: Razor shoulder catching on hone

A quick question related to this topic, on your average razor, how far should the heel corner of the edge be from the stabilizer or should it be right next to the start of the stabilizer?

Originally Posted by Matt1222

A quick question related to this topic, on your average razor, how far should the heel corner of the edge be from the stabilizer or should it be right next to the start of the stabilizer?

Depends on the razor's width and who made it, lately I seem to prefer shoulderless grinds.

Originally Posted by Matt1222

A quick question related to this topic, on your average razor, how far should the heel corner of the edge be from the stabilizer or should it be right next to the start of the stabilizer?

Take a squint at post #15. The image shows what the relationship should be.

Bob

Originally Posted by BobH

Take a squint at post #15. The image shows what the relationship should be.

Bob

Does that diagram apply to razors with proper geometry as well?

I'm not having much luck reducing the heel on the 1k, it either digs into the stone (and would trash it), or skirts over the top. The metal is quite thick around the base of the area I'd need to reduce - would a file be a better bet?

Hopefully the marked area in the pictures is correct.

http://tinyurl.com/ya7enan8
http://tinyurl.com/ybo3urgg
http://tinyurl.com/y8plybdg

Wouldn't honing with one or 2 layers of tape on the spine be all that is needed to overcome this problem?

Originally Posted by Matt1222

Does that diagram apply to razors with proper geometry as well?

On a razor the edge at the heal should start just forward of the stabilizer and be at a lower level than the end of the stabilizer. Hope that makes sense.

Sometimes on vintage razors they have been honed enough that the edge at the heel is at the same level as the end of the stabilizer. Then you have to correct it as per the image in post #15.

That would be regardless of the geometry if you mean the spine width to blade size ratio.

Bob

Originally Posted by Euclid440

The Blue arrows are where you are grinding on the spine over the stabilizer, on the stabilizer and the tang. All of these areas will keep the heel edge off the hone.

The Red arrow is where the edge corner is currently ending, already into the stabilizer, which will keep the heel off the hone or make a heel hook.

You must reshape the heel to hone it.

The Green circle is the new radius, notice how re-shaping to this profile will move the corner forward about 6MM, (Red Arrow)

There is nothing wrong with the razor. There is only something wrong with the honing.

The blue arrows indicate areas that never should be touching the hone.

The red arrow indicates the heel that will be just fine for the next few decades as long as the areas indicated by the blue arrows no longer make contact with a hone.

The green circle indicates needless alteration to a blade that is just fine.

If you hone that razor with one, or at most two, layers of tape while honing at a 45 degree angle (as shown in post 10), then that will naturally keep the stabilizers off of the hone. No modification to that razor is necessary.

I have tried, but have to relieve the stabilizer to hone one.
Honing around the heel as much as I can comes natural in my honing stroke.

No good at modifying my stroke, so I modify the razor.....

No, a file will just skate off a harden steel of a razor, it must be ground off.

You can use a Diamond file or get some 400 -600 wet and dry and glue a strip on to a wooden paint stir stick, then sand the corner. Or just lay the sand paper on a flat surface and rub the corner on the paper.

Your radius is a little aggressive, you might try using a Quarter to make a tighter radius and remove just the corner. I begin by removing the corner of the heel, in a single facet then make another facet a bit higher up, and then a third facet. Blend the facets with a rolling stroke.

You can do it with a 1k stone, but may find a bit of an angle from 90 degrees, dragging the edge in a bit of spine leading stroke easier.

You can grind the shoulder down as Sharptonn did but that can cause issues while honing, because you are now honing the heel, not on the spine, but the top of the stabilizer that is lower than the spine, and not intended to be used to guide the bevel angle. The angle will be much steeper at the heel, and can keep part of the heel off the stone.

If you look at Sharptonn’s second pic, it does not look like the bevel reaches the corner of the heel, and the bevel is much thinner at the heel.