Thread: simple honing under the stereo scope

Originally Posted by onimaru55

I am mostly an "optics" user so I feel that is the gentlest way to go & also the most precise
.

I am the same. I use the TNT when setting the edge and then rely heavily on a microscope above 3k. I pay a lot of attention to the feel on the stone with the goal of getting microscope quality edges without the microscope, but at present I'm using the microscope to correlate to what I'm feeling. Teaching my full method is pretty much off of the table to someone not using a fairly high quality microscope. That makes it out of reach to the person who might want to use straights, but only if he/she can hone them themselves without a ridiculous investment in stones, equipment and practice.

For the experiment I wanted to see what I would get JUST using the burr, a 1k/6k King, CrOx, and zero optics. I did not even look at the bevel more than to see which side I wanted to start the burr on.

My interest is; "What is the minimum a person could get by with, in both equipment and training, and still get a reasonably good edge?".

Originally Posted by bluesman7

I am the same. I use the TNT when setting the edge and then rely heavily on a microscope above 3k. I pay a lot of attention to the feel on the stone with the goal of getting microscope quality edges without the microscope, but at present I'm using the microscope to correlate to what I'm feeling. Teaching my full method is pretty much off of the table to someone not using a fairly high quality microscope. That makes it out of reach to the person who might want to use straights, but only if he/she can hone them themselves without a ridiculous investment in stones, equipment and practice.

For the experiment I wanted to see what I would get JUST using the burr, a 1k/6k King, CrOx, and zero optics. I did not even look at the bevel more than to see which side I wanted to start the burr on.

My interest is; "What is the minimum a person could get by with, in both equipment and training, and still get a reasonably good edge?".

Another way to skin the cat.

I only use an 8x loupe. It's inexpensive for beginners and as a one on one process easy to teach & learn.

I think the minimum one could use would be a 12k for "one stone honing" but it is slowish & not consistent.
With minimalist progressions it's also best to use fast cutting stones so that the middle stone doesn't have to work too hard & long. If you were honing a bunch of wedges Kings tend to need more lapping than harder stones.

Originally Posted by bluesman7

My interest is; "What is the minimum a person could get by with, in both equipment and training, and still get a reasonably good edge?".

I can say a 4/8 Norton. I use a 5x loupe, but usually look at it with readers and a magnifying visor on.
I run from microscopes!

Originally Posted by sharptonn

I can say a 4/8 Norton. I use a 5x loupe, but usually look at it with readers and a magnifying visor on.
I run from microscopes!

What was Jimmy's saying? The higher the magnification the worse my honing looks

Sounds about right!
I would not know.....I have never looked. At least to much magnification.

Sharp and shiny bevel is fine with me!

I feel that chucking my crappy Amazon 30x LED loupe for an actual quality triplet (10x BELoMo) was the single biggest improvement to my honing since I started in 2012. Edge details are super crisp and clear combined with a much larger, clearer field of view that outclasses the plastic, Chinese loupe in every way. The difference is like using a real tool versus a toy that mimics the function of the actual tool.

Best couple of $20s I have spent on honing to date.

Yup, there is optics then there is optics.

Bob

Originally Posted by sharptonn

I can say a 4/8 Norton. I use a 5x loupe, but usually look at it with readers and a magnifying visor on.
I run from microscopes!

I think you could add a pasted strop to follow the Norton 4/8 and for tune ups for not much money and get a pretty good edge.

Originally Posted by DZEC

I think you could add a pasted strop to follow the Norton 4/8 and for tune ups for not much money and get a pretty good edge.

You could also use a Naniwa 3K/8K combination stone in place of the Norton 4K/8K along with a Crox pasted strop.

Bob

The Norton 4/8 or the Naniwa 3/8 is well proved for beginners and experienced honers, many people have been rather surprised at the edge off a Norton 8k when pushed by very experienced hands

https://sharprazorpalace.com/honing/...on-2012-a.html


There are many one hone options but beginners would have issues with a bevel set

Part of the issue with all these discussions is the term "Honing" is never really broken down to the important components

Heavy bevel sets/repair

Normal bevel sets

Sharpen and finish

Finish refresh


This makes a huge difference in technique and hones, but we tend to just lump it all into the same conversation

ie:
I was resetting a damaged bevel and I raised a burr took that off and then set my 1k bevel
-vs-
I was on my 4k bringing the sharpness back and evening up the bevels before moving up to the 8k and raised a burr

The former would be accepted as no big deal, the latter would be looked at as heavy hands and bad technique


Hone On !!!