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  1. #11
    Hones & Honing randydance062449's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by Kees View Post
    Best thing to do is lap it with sandpaper. For Thuringers I use 220 followed by 400 grit sandpaper befor I send them to buyers. Just a piece wrapped around a wooden cube that is slightly bigger than the hone's width.

    Much cheaper and just as good as a lapping stone.
    I agree with Kees on this one. The Belgians and other slate based hones can be lapped flat with sandpaper because they are so soft. Use a coarse grit, 220-320, until the stone is flat then use a 600 followed by a 1000 grit to obtain a very good finish on the hone.

    Just my way,
    Randolph Tuttle, a SRP Mentor for residents of Minnesota & western Wisconsin

  2. #12
    Razorsmith JoshEarl's Avatar
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    Although I really like lapping my Belgians on my DMT 325, I agree that sandpaper would be fine for flattening them. These hones are harder than a Norton, so you only have to lap them occasionally. I lap my blue about every 10 razors or so. The coticule gets lapped even less frequently.

    If you hone a lot, some kind of flattening stone is very handy. If not, sandpaper works great.

    Josh

  3. #13
    Senior Member blabbermouth Kees's Avatar
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    Josh,

    Why lap so often? My coticule is still pretty flat after almost one year. I got my Escher cupped a bit and never bothered to lap it: great performance nonetheless!
    Plus ça change, plus c'est la même chose. Jean-Baptiste Alphonse Karr.

  4. #14
    Razorsmith JoshEarl's Avatar
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    Kees,

    The Belgian blue wears a little quicker than the coticule. After about 10 or 15 razors, when I go to lap it, it's slightly dished in the middle. Very slightly, but still dished. It actually still works fine, but I figure the dishing will eventually cause a problem, so I might as well lap in several smaller sessions rather than one big one.

    I use a cotigura to build a slurry, and I usually refresh the slurry about three times per razor.

    The coticule hasn't really shown any signs of dishing. I've lapped it lightly once in the past three months, and it didn't really need even that. I don't use a slurry on the coticule, so that greatly reduces the wear and tear.

    That's just what I do right now.

    Josh

  5. #15
    Still hasn't shut up PuFFaH's Avatar
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    Josh
    I would suggest that the over use of the slurry stone is what is wearing your hone not the razors. Just a thought!

    PuFF

  6. #16
    Senior Member blabbermouth jnich67's Avatar
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    Do you lapp with the DMT wet or dry? thanks

    Jordan

  7. #17
    Razorsmith JoshEarl's Avatar
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    Puff,

    You're right that the slurry stone is wearing my hone, but I'm not sure that I want to stop using it. Without the slurry, the blue Belgian is a lot slower. I'd end up doing many, many more strokes on it, which would then lead to more wear from the razor. It might be six of one, half dozen of another.

    Now that you mention it, though, I am going to try using a thinner slurry and see if it gives the same result. I have been using a very thick slurry because I assumed it was better.

    On the subject of lapping, I always lap with water, no matter what hone I'm working on. It keeps the DMT from getting clogged with powder from the hone.

    Josh

  8. #18
    Still hasn't shut up PuFFaH's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by jnich67 View Post
    Do you lapp with the DMT wet or dry? thanks

    Wet to flatten a hone is best.

    Jordan
    Quote Originally Posted by JoshEarl View Post
    Puff,

    You're right that the slurry stone is wearing my hone, but I'm not sure that I want to stop using it. Without the slurry, the blue Belgian is a lot slower. I'd end up doing many, many more strokes on it, which would then lead to more wear from the razor. It might be six of one, half dozen of another.

    Now that you mention it, though, I am going to try using a thinner slurry and see if it gives the same result. I have been using a very thick slurry because I assumed it was better.

    On the subject of lapping, I always lap with water, no matter what hone I'm working on. It keeps the DMT from getting clogged with powder from the hone.

    Josh
    Try putting a rubbing stone over the DMT when wet then the slurry made this way use on your hone. I have not tried this but I would guess that the resulting slurry made on the DMT would be usable on your hone. If you try it before me, post your opinion Josh.

    PuFF

    p.s. I have used the dry powder left on the DMT to apply to the hone I had flattened once though. This I then added water too, but, I never paid any attention to the result tbh to pass comment.
    Last edited by PuFFaH; 08-19-2007 at 07:03 PM. Reason: lied

  9. #19
    Senior Member blabbermouth Kees's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by PuFFaH View Post
    Josh
    I would suggest that the over use of the slurry stone is what is wearing your hone not the razors. Just a thought!

    PuFF

    That's why I always raise a slurry at the ends of my Escher where it is thickest.
    Plus ça change, plus c'est la même chose. Jean-Baptiste Alphonse Karr.

  10. #20
    Razorsmith JoshEarl's Avatar
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    That's a good idea, Kees. I do try to use both the ends and the middle of the hone when making a slurry. I think I do favor the middle, though.

    Josh

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