Thread: Lapping issues with D8C

Folks,

After honing up a new Wapi on my (new) Belgian Blue stone, I noticed
an extremely sharp edge, but found 2 small chips near the toe of the
blade. I'm unsure whether or not these were present before the honing,
but I thought I should give my hone a lap with the D8C because I had
noticed some rough patches near the sides and corners.

After several seconds of lapping, however, the surface of the hone was
scratched and had a rough feeling where the scratches appeared. My
method of lapping was to bring the D8C and the blue hone together in
hand and rub in a circular motion with plenty of water.

What can I do to return my hone to that silky smoothness, and fix my
D8C?

P.S. I noticed the exact same scratch pattern with the Norton 4/8k
that I lapped with this diamond hone

That's perplexing! I, too, have a D8C. - and I use it on my Blue Belgium, Yellow Coticule, and my Thuringens. It does a fabulous job and leaves all the stones very smooth.

Perhaps Howard will address this issue.

Steve

Originally Posted by zepplin

That's perplexing! I, too, have a D8C. - and I use it on my Blue Belgium, Yellow Coticule, and my Thuringens. It does a fabulous job and leaves all the stones very smooth.

Perhaps Howard will address this issue.

Steve

I'm eagerly awaiting a D8C and a Belgian Blue. Do you go to a finer surface (eg. 800-1000 grit sandpaper) after the DMT or no? Howard? Thanks

Jordan

The DMT hones will leave scratches like that until they're broken in because there are high spots on the hone's surface. The best way to break it in is to use it. Howard rubs an old chisel on his new DMTs. I either hone a cheap kitchen knife for a while or do some strokes with pressure using a warped wedge razor that I have. It takes a little while to smooth things out, but after that it'll lap beautifully.

You might try using sandpaper to remove the scratches while your hone is breaking in.

Josh

Josh,

After thinking about the problem for a while I remembered it being
mentioned that these hones need to be broken in. I do believe I'll
employ the chisel method!

Thanks for the help,

- Scott

Howard specifically told me that only the 8000 grit DMT needs to be broken in. The others don't. It is possible that they will perform slightly better, but I don't think that it will make too much of a difference.

Originally Posted by jnich67

I'm eagerly awaiting a D8C and a Belgian Blue. Do you go to a finer surface (eg. 800-1000 grit sandpaper) after the DMT or no? Howard? Thanks

Jordan

It doesn't seem to be needed. I lap my stones frequently and they are nice and smooth every time. I am not aware of the need to "break in" a Belgium Blue. I bought mine from Howard and asked him the same question..."do I have to repeat with a finer stone or paper after the 325 DMT continiuos?" and he ashured me it wasn't needed. - and, he was right (as usual).

Steve

Not to argue with Howard or David, but all seven of my DMTs have smoothed with some use.

Howard told me about the chisel method in response to a question about my DMT 1200, which initially was taking small chips out of my razors.

It gets better.

Josh

Well, I'm going to have to bug Howard about this one! I'll see
what his thoughts are and let everyone know how I make out.

Best thing to do is lap it with sandpaper. For Thuringers I use 220 followed by 400 grit sandpaper befor I send them to buyers. Just a piece wrapped around a wooden cube that is slightly bigger than the hone's width.

Much cheaper and just as good as a lapping stone.