Thread: Lapping issues with D8C

I used an old chisel on the D8C today to try and ``break it in'', and then
lapped my Norton and belgian blue. Much better results this time, though
it looks like more honing with the chisel will be necessary.

Good deal. When "honing" the chisel, be sure you don't gouge the surface of the hone. Howard uses the back of the chisel, which presents a nice, flat surface.

My 325 took a bit of work, but now it's fabulous.

Josh

Maybe I should try to "break in" my DMT-C 325 too. I have already lapped and refreshed many hones though, so it might already be there. I have always been under the impression that only the DMT-EE needed to be broken in, but if you guys are getting better results then it's worth a shot.

So, last night I lapped a carborundum(sp?) razor hone on my D8C. I did this under running water in the sink, but there are still residue splotches all over/in the plate and they don't want to rinse off. Anyone ever had this happen? Should I be concerned?

Jordan

David, If your hone isn't scratching the hones you're lapping, I wouldn't worry about it. I'm not sure if lapping hones is sufficient to break these in; maybe an Arkansas would put up enough of a fight to knock down the high spots. Barber hones and Belgians are an abrasive in a relatively soft matrix (compared to diamond, anyway.)

Jordan, I'm afraid you'll have to get used to the blotches. Every one of my DMTs has developed some kind of discoloration. It bugs me, too, but it doesn't appear to hurt anything.

If your carborundum develops a sheen from lapping, you'll need to lap it on a coarse sandpaper, like 80 or 120 grit. That'll restore the rough surface for fast cutting. (My 325 put a mirror finish on two carborundums, and they wouldn't cut after that.)

Josh