Thread: Stabilizer correction

Originally Posted by Euclid440

Chef Knives to Go 400/1000 grit Diamond plate, $29.

It will do everything that a DMT or any other diamond plate will do for a lot less. I have one that is probably 10 years old and has lapped hundreds of stone, sharpened hundreds of tools and performed many razor and knife repairs.

Lap stones at 400, reprofile razor edges with the 1k side. Or buy the DMT your choice.

A quick question.

Is a 1K Diamond plate better than a 1K stone, Norton 1K in my case?

If a Diamond plate is better, why is that apart from the fact that it's got diamond in the name so if I get an extra one , the wifes Christmas is taken care of this year

With things like heel corrections you will make grooves in your 1K very easily. The Diamond plate is far more durable in the regard. For honing, I find it takes forever to get the 1K diamond scratches out of the bevel, as they seem much deeper and more crisp, so it’s a no go for me. For heel correction it is my go to.

Originally Posted by RezDog

With things like heel corrections you will make grooves in your 1K very easily. The Diamond plate is far more durable in the regard. For honing, I find it takes forever to get the 1K diamond scratches out of the bevel, as they seem much deeper and more crisp, so it’s a no go for me. For heel correction it is my go to.

Thanks, I just corrected the stabilizer as Paul suggested earlier with a penny ( 10c actually).

I corrected it with the 220 and you are right about the stones being soft. Talk about deep gouges in the stone, lucky it's the 220 and have never used it before today - probably won't again if I get a diamond plate.

Originally Posted by PaulFLUS

I would start with a heel correction. Sometimes a dime or a penny or a washer works well but what you want is a circle that contacts the edge of the bevel, the edge of the spine, and the far edge of the stabilizer, then take a sharpie and draw a line around the circular object, whatever it is and file to there. Sort of like this:
Attachment 328902
What that does is two things. It brings the back of the bevel forward and it brings the stabilizer in at an angle that is more pleasing than that hideous (no offense) thing it has now. I think if you do that and hone a little further forward on the new end of the bevel that that will take care of your problem.

First I have to thank Euclid440 for the thread about correcting stabilizers, Planeden gave me the thread and I did read it but it went straight over my head unfortunately.

Thank you Paul for explaining it in idiot proof language, methinks you must have trained a few people to be locksmiths that started out not knowing what a key looked like.

OK, this was what I did:

Before correction, couldn't set the bevel toward the heel.



Marked around a 10c piece and coloured in the metal to be removed.



Carefully ground the stabilizer to remove the coloured in area and marked the bevel.



I set the bevel on my 1K Norton, moved to 4K, onto 8K. Finished on 12K Naniwa, CroOx and Leather.

This razor is now tree-toping along the whole length and later I will shave with it.

If it shaves well I will be so happy, if it doesn't I will go back to the drawing board because I now understand that it can shave.

You marked it correctly, but did not cut to your layout line.

Ha, Just opened my razor to show my wife how well I had managed to hone it and let if close on my finger.

Originally Posted by Euclid440

You marked it correctly, but did not cut to your layout line.

What's a layout line?

I often use a 25 cent piece. I think it gives a better sweep around the heal. I dont worry about lining up the spine with the coin. What matters is a smooth sweeping curve and the edge being lower than the stabilizer. Of course thats with the blade in the spine up configuration.

Layout line. The line you made by coloring in the heal. It looks as if you didnt follow what you colored.
The picture with the edge red looks like you did nothing to the heal.

Originally Posted by Gasman

I often use a 25 cent piece. I think it gives a better sweep around the heal. I dont worry about lining up the spine with the coin. What matters is a smooth sweeping curve and the edge being lower than the stabilizer. Of course thats with the blade in the spine up configuration.

Layout line. The line you made by coloring in the heal. It looks as if you didnt follow what you colored.
The picture with the edge red looks like you did nothing to the heal.

Thanks, I see what your'e talking about. I'll do it again more carefully.

On a side note, I just had a shave with it. I won't pretend it was the sharpest razor I've used. Not even the sharpest I have honed myself, but it did give me a good close shave along the whole edge so now it's a question of improving.

I've not had to adjust a stabilizer before, so this is a really exciting learning curve.

Originally Posted by Gasman

What matters is__________________ the edge being lower than the stabilizer..

The rest is aesthetics.