Thread: Stabilizer correction

Hi Guys,

Although I have read that this subject is in the Library, I can't find it so I am hoping for a bit of idiot proof advice.

I have a razor, it's not expensive but that's besides the point (Titan).

I am trying to set the bevel. The center and toe of the blade is set but I cannot for the life of me get the heel set, not even nearly. I doubt if I could even cut my finger with it, not that I'm going to try.

I feel that it could be that the stabilizer needs correction. I ground it a bit with a dremel because I have a Gold Dollar that I got to play with and learn on that I did the same with and now it shave so well I have added it to my rotation for the time being.

I don't know if the Titan hasn't been corrected enough or whether i did it badly or maybe shouldn't have been done at all but the heel third will not set.

I have set a timer for 45 minutes and worked on my 1K 3 times but cannot get the heel end to set.

Before I bin this piece of crap it occurred to me that I should ask you guys, I'm sure my problem isn't unique and I am willing to bet that a lot of you just take it in your stride.

Let me know if you need any different pics, I know the razor isn't wonderful but I still want it sharp (unlike my photographs).

By the way it's not a GD and not Chinese.

Here is a detailed thread about it. https://sharprazorpalace.com/honing/...ml#post1714002

But, am I wrong, or should your edge "stop" where it starts curving back up towards the stabilizer? It would seem that it would be far enough away that the stabilizer wont affect the bevel?

I suppose that is a heel repair, maybe different from what you want to do with the stabilizer.

TITAN..!!!

My spidy sense's are tingling. Its gotta be that notorious... RSO. Thing.

Two things:

Correct the heel.

Thin the stabilizers.

Looks like you've pert near honed to the tang, on those stabilizers

Originally Posted by outback

TITAN..!!!

My spidy sense's are tingling. Its gotta be that notorious... RSO. Thing.

Two things:

Correct the heel.

Thin the stabilizers.

Looks like you've pert near honed to the tang, on those stabilizers

Thanks Mike,

I haven't actually honed the stabilizer, I did that with a dremel.


I read the post that Planeden sent the link for but to be honest I couldn't see what my problem is.

I don't really get "thin the stabilizer".

I think I need it explained as if I had never seen a straight.

I wonder how it sits on the hone. If the tape the edge and spine then put it on a Diamond hone with sharpie on the heel/stabilizer you should be able to figure out where it sits high. From them I would be inclined to use a Diamond file until the sharpie shows it sitting flat. It’s a pain to do those thing so I avoid the razor brands that have a reputation for these kinds of flaws. Good luck.

I would start with a heel correction. Sometimes a dime or a penny or a washer works well but what you want is a circle that contacts the edge of the bevel, the edge of the spine, and the far edge of the stabilizer, then take a sharpie and draw a line around the circular object, whatever it is and file to there. Sort of like this:

What that does is two things. It brings the back of the bevel forward and it brings the stabilizer in at an angle that is more pleasing than that hideous (no offense) thing it has now. I think if you do that and hone a little further forward on the new end of the bevel that that will take care of your problem.

I have a Norton 1k/220.

I haven't ever used the 220 side obviously but I wonder if it would do the stabilizer grinding/re-profiling that has been suggested and explained so clearly by PaulFLUS.

I am seriously considering a DMT. What grit do you guys think would be the most useful. The grits seem to be in this format (25 micron / 600 mesh), that would be a Fine apparently.

This is what I'm thinking https://www.amazon.ca/DMT-D6F-Dia-Sh...001WP1KQ&psc=1

It's 6x2 but I can't see the problem there because my Arks are the same size.

Originally Posted by STF

I have a Norton 1k/220.

I haven't ever used the 220 side obviously but I wonder if it would do the stabilizer grinding/re-profiling that has been suggested and explained so clearly by PaulFLUS.

I am seriously considering a DMT. What grit do you guys think would be the most useful. The grits seem to be in this format (25 micron / 600 mesh), that would be a Fine apparently.

This is what I'm thinking https://www.amazon.ca/DMT-D6F-Dia-Sh...001WP1KQ&psc=1

It's 6x2 but I can't see the problem there because my Arks are the same size.

The Norton 220 should work fine to get the stabilizer reshaped.

I recommend getting a 8 inch coarse DMT. It will flatten the Norton for you. Keep it away from the ARKs.

Chef Knives to Go 400/1000 grit Diamond plate, $29.

It will do everything that a DMT or any other diamond plate will do for a lot less. I have one that is probably 10 years old and has lapped hundreds of stone, sharpened hundreds of tools and performed many razor and knife repairs.

Lap stones at 400, reprofile razor edges with the 1k side. Or buy the DMT your choice.

If you want a Diamond plate or hone a little quicker, Paul’ Finest is in Canada. Not quite as wide a range of product as Chef Knives to Go but it doesn’t get stored by CBS.