Thread: Chamfering the edges on a Coti

Originally Posted by STF

I am toying with the idea of getting a BBW, basically because I don't have one

I am a bit confused. I have been under the impession that a BBW is coarser than a yellow coti and better for heavier work, maybe bevel setting or restoration

If that is correct and the coti is finer, why will a BBW help in a progression in the normal shceme of things, especially as a finisher?

With man made stones, the grit is a measure of “coarseness”. Low grit number = big abrasive particles and large chunks of metal removed. High grit number = less metal removed and way smaller abrasive particles.

With coticules and BBW, the size of the abrasive particles are very close, but the density of their distribution in the carrier material is less in the BBW than in the coticule. This is a pretty simplistic explanation and not likely very scientific, but it’s how I understand why it is possible to get similar edges with the two stones.

Originally Posted by STF

This morning I had another shave with the same coti edge that disappointed me yesterday except that I added 25 laps on ChroOx.

My shave today was completely different, BBS without much effort.

I will say that I am not satisfied yet, I don't expect to be because I've only had the rock for a couple of days.

The shave was close but just felt sharp, no coti smoothness.

Tomorrow I am going to set the bevel to 12K on synth so I know where I'm at and then add tape and do 30 x-strokes under running water on the coti.

I will probably spend a few days doing that to get a handle on how good I can get the edge. I will then set the bevel again on 1k and continue with the coti. When I eventually have that down I can try the whole progression from bevel set again.

The chromium oxide is usually rated at around 30K grit. There aren’t many stones that can polish to that level.

Have you tried a couple of “weight of the razor” dry laps on the coticule after using the chromium oxide? It might tone down the “sharp” feeling of the edge and restore the typical coticule smoothness without sacrificing much, if any, keenness.

This morning before my shave I used a layer of tape and 30 laps on my coti dry, 20 laps on Cotton and 40 on leather.

It made an awesome difference, my edge is sharp but smooth!

Thank you DZEC and Tristan. To be fair PaulFLUS also suggested I try using my stone dry before it had even arrived so thanks to all three of you.

I will still hone my razor again on synths 1k - 12K then coti, 1k then coti to finish, and finally coti only from bevel to finish with with running water and dry.

I will try to avoid ChroOx because it feels a bit like cheating but I will use it if I need to.

Awesome, that's great to hear!

Great work Steve. I think you'll have it mastered if you keep up the good work.

This morning I killed the edge on my Kinfolks and set the bevel on a 1k Norton, I progressed 4K/8k and 12k Naniwa SS.

I wanted to use no tape yet but also didn't want to wear the spine so I used a layer of Kapton Tape because it's nice and thin.

My edge was great and tree topping without any problems, I didn't test shave it because I wasn't finished.

I added a layer of electrical tape on top of the kapton and did 30 x-stroke laps on my coti under running water.

I dried it removed all the tape did 20 laps on flax to make sure it was dry then did 25 laps on ChroOx (even though I said I wouldn't), 10 laps on nylon to clean the ChroOx off, 20 more laps on flax and 50 on Leather.

I haven't shaved with it yet because I have already shaved today.

My hairs don't wait for that blade now, they jump off when they see it coming so I am hoping for good things tomorrow - I'll keep ya posted.

Originally Posted by STF

This morning I killed the edge on my Kinfolks and set the bevel on a 1k Norton, I progressed 4K/8k and 12k Naniwa SS.

I wanted to use no tape yet but also didn't want to wear the spine so I used a layer of Kapton Tape because it's nice and thin.

My edge was great and tree topping without any problems, I didn't test shave it because I wasn't finished.

I added a layer of electrical tape on top of the kapton and did 30 x-stroke laps on my coti under running water.

I dried it removed all the tape did 20 laps on flax to make sure it was dry then did 25 laps on ChroOx (even though I said I wouldn't), 10 laps on nylon to clean the ChroOx off, 20 more laps on flax and 50 on Leather.

I haven't shaved with it yet because I have already shaved today.

My hairs don't wait for that blade now, they jump off when they see it coming so I am hoping for good things tomorrow - I'll keep ya posted.

Well, I had my shower and shave this morning. That kinfolks astounded me. The edge was really good (sharp as a razor so to speak), it was coti smooth and I had a BBS shave with no pressure, didn't even feel like a shave actually.

I am so pleased with my edge that I will use it for another day or two.

Question, I finished with my Coti under running water, my next experiment will be dry but can I just add the Kapton for my bevel angle and tape for my micro bevel or should I take the edge back to maybe 8K to ensure that the running water finish is removed?

I personally think that finishing dry would overwrite the running water edge so going back to the synths shouldn't necessary.

Originally Posted by STF

Question, I finished with my Coti under running water, my next experiment will be dry but can I just add the Kapton for my bevel angle and tape for my micro bevel or should I take the edge back to maybe 8K to ensure that the running water finish is removed?

I personally think that finishing dry would overwrite the running water edge so going back to the synths shouldn't necessary.

Indeed, you should not drop back in your progression.

As your micro bevel has been set on Coti + water, you can finish directly on 1 layer of tape dry.

Let me know how it compares to you, I find them under running water to be more smoothed out.
But I only strop on cotton or linen afterwards and not on crox. I'm interested in your findings!

Keep us posted!

Just joint the edge, and re-set in 6-10 laps.

When you joint the edge, any edge on re-set is a whole new edge. Once the bevels are flat and in the correct angle you only need to remove a few microns to make a new edge and re-set can be done in a few laps.

It will also be a straighter edge.

Try stropping after jointing and before your final laps, for an even straighter and stronger edge,

Originally Posted by TristanLudlow

Indeed, you should not drop back in your progression.

As your micro bevel has been set on Coti + water, you can finish directly on 1 layer of tape dry.

Let me know how it compares to you, I find them under running water to be more smoothed out.
But I only strop on cotton or linen afterwards and not on crox. I'm interested in your findings!

Keep us posted!

I added a layer of kapton tape (because that is how I honed it on the synths) and a layer of electrical tape.

I did 30 x-strokes dry on my coti.

I feel that using running water is smoother and more skin friendly than dry. I did use ChroOx because I had used it when I did the running water attempt so I felt I had to use it again to make the comparison fair.

I'm going to try the running water and the dry comparisons again but this time without the ChroOx.

So far I like the running water the best.