Thread: Chamfering the edges on a Coti

Originally Posted by DZEC

I just went through the whole coticule progression with a Wade to & Butcher near wedge. This is the first time I used Kapton tape, so I basically had to start from scratch with the bevel reset.

Was the razor shaving before you added the tape?

If it was, adding a layer of tape will create a micro-bevel where the beauty is that you can skip a part of the honing progression without needing to reset the bevel or drop down to a bevel setter.

Btdubs, I also have a Kanayama that doesn't mention the name, but it was rebranded for the "German" market or something, amazing strops.

It was shaving OK, but was just starting to tug a bit.

I had just received a roll of Kapton tape, which I had never used before. I had always used 3M electrical tape. My understanding is that the Kapton is a thinner tape. I figured that would mean the secondary bevel I had from the electrical tape would be at a different angle from the one formed using Kapton, so I decided to go back to the beginning and reset the bevel using the new tape.

Originally Posted by DZEC

It was shaving OK, but was just starting to tug a bit.

I had just received a roll of Kapton tape, which I had never used before. I had always used 3M electrical tape. My understanding is that the Kapton is a thinner tape. I figured that would mean the secondary bevel I had from the electrical tape would be at a different angle from the one formed using Kapton, so I decided to go back to the beginning and reset the bevel using the new tape.

I use just a layer of Kapton Tape as well, I like to get as close to no tape honing as I can but not cause any spine wear and the Kapton is very thin but lasts well.

If I want a micro bevel I add a layer of electrical tape over the Kapton for the finish.

As Tristan said, by creating a micro bevel I can try different finishes (Dry/Running Water etc) without needing to drop back, just add the Kapton and electrical tape again and rework the micro bevel.

Yes, Kapton is a nice hardwearing tape, just be sure to apply it long enough that the back end is past or close to the stabilizer, or a bit longer than electric if using over electric tape, it can roll up on you.

It is thin and easily sticks to itself. Make your life easy and get a tape dispenser from the dollar store. It also makes it simple to hold the blade up to the dispenser, pull out the tape and measure exactly how much tape you need.

The difference in bevel wear between, Kapton and electrical tape is not that much, and a bevel will flatten out in about 20 laps. Glen has a tape no tape video where he compares honing with and without tape and how many laps it takes to effect a change. I forget the number, but it was not a lot and I think he use a 4 or 5k.

A micro bevel is less than 10 laps, about 3-5 is good, anymore you have a double bevel and more, you have changed the bevel completely, not that it matters to the edge.

I finished on my LPB, using hibudgl's method because I'm often times too heavy handed, very good trick and got a very good edge, probably the smoothest Coti edge I ever gotten

@Tristan: interesting study on coticule and BBW you discussed. As your link didn't work when I tried it I copy-pasted it here:
file:///C:/Users/User/Downloads/BBW-study%20(3).pdf

I did not know the study. Interesting especially because the garnets in the BBW are twice the size of those in coticules: http://www.coticule.be/faq-reader/it...garnets41.html

Originally Posted by STF

Just a quick question guys.

I have been warned not to use a diamond plate on an Ark or any slate.

Can I use a diamond plate to chamfer the edges on my coti?

Going back to the opening post: why not use sandpaper? Gives nicely rounded smooth edges on your stones.

Originally Posted by Kees

Going back to the opening post: why not use sandpaper? Gives nicely rounded smooth edges on your stones.

I'm sure you're right, sandpaper would work well.

My Coticle edges are already chamfered now, I used a 400 diamond plate and then smoothed them nicely with the slurry stone. It was a very quick job, Coticules must be lot softer that a trans ark, chamfering the edges on that took a lot more effort and I used sic.

Since we circled back to the OP I figured I would jump in finally

I guess I have been doing it wrong all these years because I have never found an issue from using a Diamond Plate to Campher the edges nor to raise a light slurry to finish with. (A Well Worn aka Broken In with no high diamonds)

I have read multiple times about trying to use running water, oil, or a honing solution to finish on a Coti and I always wonder WHY??
Why are you trying to take away what makes the Coti finish so nice, it is that lovely creamy Coti slurry that makes the finish stand out
Much the same on a Escher, or as generally accepted on most Japanese finishers. I just don't understand why there is a push to decease the very thing that makes these hones deliver that SMOOTH face feel.. But hey your razors your rocks your face = Your Choice, but for me I have found the "Magic in the Mud"


Hone On

Originally Posted by gssixgun

Since we circled back to the OP I figured I would jump in finally

I guess I have been doing it wrong all these years because I have never found an issue from using a Diamond Plate to Campher the edges nor to raise a light slurry to finish with. (A Well Worn aka Broken In with no high diamonds)

I have read multiple times about trying to use running water, oil, or a honing solution to finish on a Coti and I always wonder WHY??
Why are you trying to take away what makes the Coti finish so nice, it is that lovely creamy Coti slurry that makes the finish stand out
Much the same on a Escher, or as generally accepted on most Japanese finishers. I just don't understand why there is a push to decease the very thing that makes these hones deliver that SMOOTH face feel.. But hey your razors your rocks your face = Your Choice, but for me I have found the "Magic in the Mud"


Hone On

Far be it from me to disagree with you Glen, to be honest I'm not comfortable even writing this.

I would be grateful for some idiot proof explanation. When I got my Coti I did the usual research, including the Coti site.

Basically I was given the impression that creating a slurry on a Coti will speed up the cutting power, but slurry will only allow the edge to go so far and I could wear my razor down to a toothpick and still never get it shave ready.

I was given the impression that my slurry should be thinned until ultimately there was none, running water I was led to believe to finish stops slurry that will reduce my edge at the very end.

Like I said, if you say that's not correct I'm sure your right.

I did use a diamond plate to chamfer the edges but I have a slurry stone that came with it so I use that to make slurry.