Thread: Blade correction

Please pardon all the question thy are just part of my learning process.

When you guys say "reshape the Heal" Do you mean to grind the heal like this?

Originally Posted by STF

,,,,,

I seem to remember "he shall not be named" teaching that.

Lord Voldemort?

You could but that would change the geometry of the blade.

Originally Posted by bouschie

You could but that would change the geometry of the blade.

Are you talking about grinding the spine or reshaping the heal?

The blade looks to have been heavily sanded and buffed and the spine is no longer straight or is warped or twisted, the bevels will be uneven as a result. Most razors are warped and most bevel are not perfectly even.

Use a rolling X stroke, heal leading and keep the heel on the stone at least half-way across the stone to hone the heel. The Rolling X will also hone the toe, Ink on the bevel will tell you if you need to lift and how much, to hone the toe.

Two layers of tape would have made a smaller bevel. You cannot hone a curved edge with a straight stroke. You can grind the spine, but why, just hone the heel and toe.

Originally Posted by Euclid440

The blade looks to have been heavily sanded and buffed and the spine is no longer straight or is warped or twisted, the bevels will be uneven as a result. Most razors are warped and most bevel are not perfectly even.

Use a rolling X stroke, heal leading and keep the heel on the stone at least half-way across the stone to hone the heel. The Rolling X will also hone the toe, Ink on the bevel will tell you if you need to lift and how much, to hone the toe.

Two layers of tape would have made a smaller bevel. You cannot hone a curved edge with a straight stroke. You can grind the spine, but why, just hone the heel and toe.

I did use a rolling X stroke but maybe I didn't roll it enough. I will re-bevel with 2 layers and try to keep an eye of the rolling part better.

I only brought up grinding the spine as an option to using tape to build up certain areas of the spine to make it straight and flat and having to remember what blade had tape and where the tape goes.

How about re-shaping the heel? Is the picture on the right track or am I way off?

You can use the "Grind the Spine" idea WITHOUT grinding the spine

One layer of tape
Grind the spine until you hit steel in the high spots and leave tape in the low spots
Apply the next layers of tape OVER that first layer
How many layers is determined by the angle needed to correct it

Now do NOT remove that first layer while honing and hone as normal
You have a nice even spine and nice even bevel

Yeah it is a Tape Trick !!! You can thank me later

Yes, you are on the right track but will need to be more aggressive with the cut. The goal is to move the heel corner, (where the straight edge stops and starts to curve) forward of the stabilizer about a ¼ inch.

The razor looks to have lost a lot of blade width. The wide stabilizer will cause an issue and you will need to put a sever curve into the heel to move the heel corner well forward of the stabilizer. Blue Arrow is where corner ends now, Red Arrow where it needs to be to avoid stabilizer. It may look a bit wonky but should take an edge.

It also looks to have a frown, caused by honing on the stabilizer. Removing the frown will remove even more blade width.

Fixing beaters is exactly what you want to do to learn how to make these repairs. Just take your time, the metal is thin and comes off quickly.

Did you use a heel forward X stroke? You must keep the heel on the stone at least halfway or you will not hone the heel. To hone the toe, you will likely need to lift the heel off the stone a bit to hone around the curve of the toe. Get a red sharpie and ink the bevel, with colored ink you can easily see your progress without magnification.

Originally Posted by gssixgun

You can use the "Grind the Spine" idea WITHOUT grinding the spine

One layer of tape
Grind the spine until you hit steel in the high spots and leave tape in the low spots
Apply the next layers of tape OVER that first layer
How many layers is determined by the angle needed to correct it

Now do NOT remove that first layer while honing and hone as normal
You have a nice even spine and nice even bevel

Yeah it is a Tape Trick !!! You can thank me later

Ok now my head is spinning..
I get grinding the high spot out of the first layer of tape. But then do I grind the 2nd layer then the 3rd if it needs it? I am completely lost. I feel like I am in the middle of Lake Ontario without a GPS...lol

Originally Posted by Euclid440

Yes, you are on the right track but will need to be more aggressive with the cut. The goal is to move the heel corner, (where the straight edge stops and starts to curve) forward of the stabilizer about a ¼ inch.

The razor looks to have lost a lot of blade width. The wide stabilizer will cause an issue and you will need to put a sever curve into the heel to move the heel corner well forward of the stabilizer. Blue Arrow is where corner ends now, Red Arrow where it needs to be to avoid stabilizer. It may look a bit wonky but should take an edge.

It also looks to have a frown, caused by honing on the stabilizer. Removing the frown will remove even more blade width.

Fixing beaters is exactly what you want to do to learn how to make these repairs. Just take your time, the metal is thin and comes off quickly.

Did you use a heel forward X stroke? You must keep the heel on the stone at least halfway or you will not hone the heel. To hone the toe, you will likely need to lift the heel off the stone a bit to hone around the curve of the toe. Get a red sharpie and ink the bevel, with colored ink you can easily see your progress without magnification.

If by heel forward you mean leading my strokes with the heel. Then yes .( I assume you are talking about the wedge) Lol I really should have made these separate post.