Thread: Blade correction

Originally Posted by Audels1

Ok now my head is spinning..
I get grinding the high spot out of the first layer of tape. But then do I grind the 2nd layer then the 3rd if it needs it? I am completely lost. I feel like I am in the middle of Lake Ontario without a GPS...lol

The first layer becomes a self leveling base...

I got the idea about 12 years ago by using inletting dye on a Rifle action..

By creating a flat level spine WITHOUT grinding the metal away you have achieved the same thing as Grinding the spine away

Just use the next layer(s) of tape as you normally do when taping a spine

This was a trick I have mentioned for several years after the idea of grinding away spines became a thing.. But hey some people just avoid tape, I avoid taking away steel on spines lol

Originally Posted by gssixgun

The first layer becomes a self leveling base...

I got the idea about 12 years ago by using inletting dye on a Rifle action..

By creating a flat level spine WITHOUT grinding the metal away you have achieved the same thing as Grinding the spine away

Just use the next layer(s) of tape as you normally do when taping a spine

This was a trick I have mentioned for several years after the idea of grinding away spines became a thing.. But hey some people just avoid tape, I avoid taking away steel on spines lol

Thanks for sharing!!!

Something to remember about spine warps, they generally aren’t isolated to the spine and is also in the edge as well. You can always hone to a smile that will accommodate the warp. There are other tricks like honing on a narrow hone so you can get to the middle on the cupped side. There is a lot to learning how to hone problematic razors. Start on beaters and leave the stuff you like for later. Also for learning to hone or trying out new techniques I would start with a quality ground straight. It’s much easier to think your way through a problem if you’ve seen the road of how to get there first.

If you need any learners I have quite a few I could send you. There’s full hollows and probably a couple of wedges and a few in between grinds. I buy razor lots occasionally for a specific razor, if the rest are junk I use them to practice or try out ideas.

Keep asking questions and posting your progress. These types of threads are immensely helpful to everyone who wants to learn to restore or get better at it. Collectively we’ve seen it all. Not to mention you have the attention of a few of the most respected restorers on the forum.

Originally Posted by jfk742

Something to remember about spine warps, they generally aren’t isolated to the spine and is also in the edge as well. You can always hone to a smile that will accommodate the warp. There are other tricks like honing on a narrow hone so you can get to the middle on the cupped side. There is a lot to learning how to hone problematic razors. Start on beaters and leave the stuff you like for later. Also for learning to hone or trying out new techniques I would start with a quality ground straight. It’s much easier to think your way through a problem if you’ve seen the road of how to get there first.

If you need any learners I have quite a few I could send you. There’s full hollows and probably a couple of wedges and a few in between grinds. I buy razor lots occasionally for a specific razor, if the rest are junk I use them to practice or try out ideas.

Keep asking questions and posting your progress. These types of threads are immensely helpful to everyone who wants to learn to restore or get better at it. Collectively we’ve seen it all. Not to mention you have the attention of a few of the most respected restorers on the forum.

Thank you for the generous offer! I may take you up on it in the future. Right now I have a bunch that I would consider junk to play with.

If I am being honest I don't see any warping in the spine or anywhere else on it. I think it was something I did or didn't do while honing it. That being said I am going to use gssixgun's tape method and that should tell me if it is in fact warped.

No damage done, that way.

Originally Posted by gssixgun

The first layer becomes a self leveling base...

I got the idea about 12 years ago by using inletting dye on a Rifle action..

By creating a flat level spine WITHOUT grinding the metal away you have achieved the same thing as Grinding the spine away

Just use the next layer(s) of tape as you normally do when taping a spine

This was a trick I have mentioned for several years after the idea of grinding away spines became a thing.. But hey some people just avoid tape, I avoid taking away steel on spines lol

Thanks Glen. Just when I started to think I am to thick to understand you offer the explanation I needed. Sounds like a great technique. Have to try that one day.

This morning I had a shave with the wedge razor and I must say it shaved really well! I got through 3 passes on my neck with it and no razor burn.I was really surprised.
I have not achieved that with any of my other razors! Maybe because of the nature of the wedge blade or even the smile. since none of my other shave ready razors have these 2 properties.

Just because it does not wobble does not mean it is flat. Lay the razor on a flat surface, (a stone) and try to slip a piece of thin paper under the spine at the heel, middle and toe. Now without moving the blade try the edge.

If it is perfectly flat, you should not be able to get paper under the blade. Now flip it over and try the other side.

Or ink the bevel and the spine, rub the whole blade on a high grit stone, if flat, ink should come off the whole spine and edge evenly.

Very few are flat, and it does not matter if you know how to hone them.

I ruined a couple of razors early on in my collecting/restoration days trying to make corrections that I could have worked around with honing techniques I now know. There is plenty of information in the honing section about this. Look for threads like honing a problem razor or things of that nature in the list of threads on the honing forum.

Originally Posted by gssixgun

The first layer becomes a self leveling base...

I got the idea about 12 years ago by using inletting dye on a Rifle action..

By creating a flat level spine WITHOUT grinding the metal away you have achieved the same thing as Grinding the spine away

Just use the next layer(s) of tape as you normally do when taping a spine

This was a trick I have mentioned for several years after the idea of grinding away spines became a thing.. But hey some people just avoid tape, I avoid taking away steel on spines lol

I ground the first layer of tape to were the high spots were worn through to steel then added another layer of tape but when I started honing the stone did not ride on the spine but rather the bottom edge if the tape. The Bevel did not change at all it was the same as the original picture A and B.

Could it be because it is a wedge and the tape it self is causing the problem?

Should I try to hone it without tape?