Thread: Identifying overhoning?

My definition of overhoning is that the razor has lost so much metal it looks funny.

Other than that, I don't have a problem with this mysterious secret thing others call "overhoning" because I don't think it really exists. Of course others will disagree.

If you hone the bevels into a point, the next step will be a bur, or wire-edge as some folks call it. This is not what I call overhoning, and I there is nothing mystical about it.

It is mainl created by honing on cutting stones. It is easily removed by back honing, or lots of X-Patterns on a good barber stone, like a Dixie or Swaty.

When you are forming your bevel with cutting stones, feel free to back hone as much as you like. The X-Pattern is a polishing pattern, not a cutting pattern, though you can use it for that.

Up to 8K I do lots of back-honing so that burrs don't develop.

On soft japanese stones, I exclusively back-hone. If you forward hone with a stone that makes a slurry, the slurry moves lengthwise across the sharp edge and dulls it slightly--not to mention the significant danger of the edge digging in.
However, you must follow up this operation with X-Patterns on a barber stone.

On hard barber stones, I use the X pattern and never get a bur.

I have found that when the edge is "too-sharp/Scratchy" sometimes the solution is 100 strokes on a plain leather hanging strop. It goes from scratchy to gliding.

If it has a bur, you can't really remove it with a strop, though, you need some time on a hard barber stone or you need to do some back-honing. This is because when the bur peels off, it leaves a rough edge that needs to be polished back out straight.

Play with it, that's where the fun is.

But keep one sharp razor aside to shave with.