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08-18-2008, 05:45 PM #21
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Thanked: 150You don't really need the DMT C (325) or DMT E (1200) at all, sandpaper will suffice for lapping stones and setting bevels, but they sure make things a lot easier.
The 1200 grit DMT E (not EE) is good for removing scratches from the DMT C and the Coticule is powerful enough to remove the DMT E scratches.
A 6x2 coticule is a great stone, one of my favorite sizes in fact: </TITLE><html> <head> <title>The Perfect Edge, the 6x1.5 is just as usable and a good deal cheaper if that's a factor. The reason the Coticule gets my recommendation over the Chinese 12k is that the Coticule cuts very fast and polishes really well. The chinese 12k will put a finer edge on the blade, but it will take a long long time to remove even 4000 grit scratches nevermind 1200 grit diamond scratches.
The CrO will make a great finishing touch after the Coticule, more than a few very respected gentleman around here use that combination and absolutely love it.
Dylan, , yes a combo coticule/blue stone would be awesome, I just wanted to keep it minimal, good thinking!Last edited by Russel Baldridge; 08-18-2008 at 05:48 PM.
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08-18-2008, 06:36 PM #22
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Thanked: 1Where does the D8EE fit into this mix? Is it similar to the Belgian Coticule, since they're both rated at 8k grit?
Would I use the Belgian Coticule with a slurry or use it wet? (or dry for that matter?)
Holy smokes, the Belgian Coticule's are expensive. What size would be "recommended"
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08-18-2008, 07:55 PM #23
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Thanked: 150The D8EE is a great 8k hone, it will remove the 1200 grit scratches very quickly (like 10 strokes) while the Coticule will need more but give superior results.
If you generate a slurry on the coticule, it performs similar to a 6k stone. When used wet, it is more like 8k to 10k and leaves a smooth as well as sharp edge.
6"x1.5" is a good choice, wider than 2" is unnecessary, longer is just a luxury.
But these are just my recommendations, there are always other options, try to wait it out before jumping into any one of these hones so that you can read up on multiple experiences with each.
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08-18-2008, 08:49 PM #24
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Thanked: 1So, do you think to do both my wusthof knives and my straight razors that I'd make a shave ready blade with a DMT D8C and D8EE and a .5 micron diamond paste strop? Or, then add a CrO strop as well? Or do I really need the DMT D8E too?
I'm not planning on jumping into this, as I just got my first Kenrup Wapi today and shaved half my face. Didn't cut myself, but immediately felt a great respect for the blade, and I liked the shave I recieved. It was at least as good as my Gillette Fusion.
I'd like to keep the blade I have sharp, and probably get a Double Arow off e-bay for $20, and see if I can make it sharp. I've got quite a few knives to prep the DMT's
Should I add a 12k or 16k stone to the procedure?
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08-18-2008, 10:32 PM #25
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Thanked: 150I'll give it a shot, right now...
(5 minutes actual hone time, 3 or 4 minutes to assess the edge, a few more to write it up)
...and the results were surprisingly good!
10 or so passes on the DMT 8C got the bevel set correctly, 20 passes on the D8EE erased the 325 grit scratches, 5 more with a very light touch left the edge as good as it was gonna be, then the pasted strop made the edge nice and smooth.
Not as smooth as I've gotten from other methods, and I don't necessarily want to recommend this as the best option, but it seems that it can, indeed, be made to work.
A paddle strop with 1micron diamond and CrO would probably be better or more time stropping on the CrO (more time than I will spend on it because I have a bias against pastes).
edit again: this may work for razors but some knives just won't hold an 8k edge. Great, now I have to try knives on this setup...Last edited by Russel Baldridge; 08-18-2008 at 11:01 PM.
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08-18-2008, 10:41 PM #26
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Thanked: 1
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08-18-2008, 11:16 PM #27
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Thanked: 150Yep, test results are positive for both razors and knives. That'll teach me to question the cutting power of diamonds.
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08-18-2008, 11:50 PM #28
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Thanked: 1
What was your procedure? Which stones and pastes? How bad was the blade, and how many strokes?
I've still got some stubble on my neck under the back of my jaw bone. Other than that afer 2 half shaves today, I think I'm going to like them. So, I'll be ordering hones soon.
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08-19-2008, 12:13 AM #29
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Thanked: 150I put the procedure for the razor in my previous post, up above.
For the knife: it was a 3 inch pocket knife, overall good shape but it was dull, had visible flat spots on the blade's edge. Knives are much less finicky than razors are, so I just did passes on the DMT 8C until the blade cut into my thumbnail evenly down it's length (the thumbnail test, TNT, is discussed in great detail somewhere around here). Then I switched to the D8EE and made enough passes for the edge to have a uniform 8k scratch pattern, spent probably 10 minutes total.
You could strop the knives on a pasted paddle if you want, but for most knives it's a waste of time, good paste, and leather if you gouge it.
I still would like to see the coticule or even chinese 12k favored over pastes, but I understand the money concerns, so just keep finishing stones open as an option in the back of your mind. If you come across the extra $50 to $75 that a good coticule costs, it will be money well spent.Last edited by Russel Baldridge; 08-19-2008 at 12:18 AM.
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08-19-2008, 12:25 AM #30
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Thanked: 1Maybe I'm blind. I don't see the Chinese 12k on woodcraft.com.
But you would say that the 12k would be comparable to the yellow?
I could swing the $40 for the 12k, but the yellow is significantly more.
And, for a blade that's kenrup shave ready I wouldn't need the D8C correct?
THANK YOU ALL FOR YOUR HELP
***Edit***
http://www.woodcraft.com/family.aspx...&FamilyID=4920
Found it. Searching chinese or 12k doesn't do it.
This is of course, that you tell me that the 12k is similar to the yellow.Last edited by chem_fun; 08-19-2008 at 12:53 AM.