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  1. #1
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    Default Sharpening knives to justify DMTC

    Ok, I've read that I can use the DMTC on my wusthof knives. While they don't need to be sharpened often (except the steak knives and the santoku. I bought a chef's choice 120, because I wasn't sure if I'd be able to put that really nice edge on the knives. Now that my first kenrup blade is on the way, and I'm looking into learning how to hone, I should do my own knives too. An added bonus is that I can sell my chef's choice 120 on e-bay as used once, and fund the hones I need for my razor.

    Ok, here's the question. I watched Lynn's video. WONDERFUL, I need to order the DVD soon. If I hone a blade with the blade flat on the stone, I'm thinking this isn't going to work on a knife. How do I hold the knife while honing? Is there a way to easily keep it at the same angle all the time? The thing that makes the straight razors easier to hone is that I just lay them flat on the stone.

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    Senior Member Navaja's Avatar
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    Default DMT Sharpening

    You'll find good info on sharpening Basic Sharpening Techniques

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    Senior Member blabbermouth jnich67's Avatar
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    I'm not very experienced or good at honing knives, but one way I read to get the angle is to take a square piece of paper - a sticky note or something - fold the corners into the center. That will give you a 45 degree angle. Then fold the sides in again - like you're making a basic paper airplane. Fold that in half and you have about a 22.5 (close enough for government work) degree triangle of paper. You can slide that under the knife to get a feel for where the blade should sit on your fingers as you move it across the hone.

    Jordan

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    what Dad calls me nun2sharp's Avatar
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    Honing knives is done at a 10-15 degree angle depending on the style/degree of edge. Watch your edge as you lay it on the hone, provided its still got a decent bevel,when the edge lays flat(not the blade) thats your angle.
    It is easier to fool people than to convince them they have been fooled. Twain

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    Quote Originally Posted by nun2sharp View Post
    Honing knives is done at a 10-15 degree angle depending on the style/degree of edge. Watch your edge as you lay it on the hone, provided its still got a decent bevel,when the edge lays flat(not the blade) thats your angle.
    +1 on this. Yes, you can feel the bevel, though it takes a bit of experience.

    When you start out you'll probably measure the angle (w/coins or whatever) and try to "lock" your wrist to maintain that angle. As you get better at it, the wrist-locking thing will go the way of training wheels and you'll go by the feel of the bevel, making tiny microadjustments through the course of the stroke.

    It's actually a little bit like the rolling-hone stroke on smiling Sheffields. Obviously the spine's role as bevel guide on a razor makes it fundamentally different, but somehow the muscle-memory of rolling-honing sheffield wedges helps me a lot when I do big butcher knives on the DMT.

    Your knife bevels may be a little sloppy at first but don't worry about it too much, they'll get better.

  7. #6
    yeehaw. Ben325e's Avatar
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    The best most comprehensive information you can find on this is at Knifeforums.com. The "In the Kitchen" subforum as well as the "Keeping Sharp" subforum will get you started well. Just ask a question and the knife nuts will jump on it like white on rice.

    Many people have a difficult time maintaining a even bevel angle, so one EASY but creative solution is to make an angled wedge to set the stone on. Then all you have to do is hold the knife flat as you move it across the stone. Here's a link on how to do it: (Double click to open up the actual youtube page so that you can read the comments in the "more info" section) YouTube - Sharpening II 001


    This is a set of 13 videos, all of them using DMT's except for the final section where the knife is finished on chromium oxide loaded leather.

    Just cut a wood block diagonally to the angle you need. For your German knives I would recommend 17 degrees. Then, put the wood block on rubberized shelf liner, and then put shelf liner ontop of the the wood block, to hold the DMT stone ontop. The guy uses leather in the video. Just hold the knife level as you stroke it - it's that easy. Basically, if you can keep soup on a spoon, you can do this. It yields excellent results. I think he whittles hair to show how effective it is.

    Each video has a caption, and you should click the "More info" to see the authors commentary on what he's doing, as he doesn't narrate.

    Also, Dave Martell from D&R Sharpening and Japaneseknifesharpening.com has a few videos on there. Just search for "Dave Sharpening" on you tube and it should come up.

    Finally, if you want an idiot proof way of getting fantastic edges on your knives, look no further than convexing the edges with wet/dry sandpaper and leather.

    This guy YouTube - Sharpening a convex knife - dull to shaving sharp
    uses an old mouse pad underneath sandpaper, and goes tip to heel, but you can go heel to tip just as fine. Here's a write up on how to do it well: Bark River Collectors Association Convex Guide

    For the black and green compound, just chromium oxide will work. You don't need the powder from Hand American: you can get a 6 oz. bar from Woodcraft.com for seven bucks, and it'll last you for years - for your razors too.


    Let me know if you have any questions, and feel free to P.M.


    If you want real easy sharpening - look no further than an Edge Pro Apex from Edgeproinc.com - it's what I use and its scary how sharp knives can get! (200 bucks, though....)

    Ben

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    +1 to all of the above. Knifeforums.com is a great place

    But the DMTC is really too coarse for sharpening most knives. It would be well suited to reforming a completely beat up edge, but for regular use it is unnecessarily coarse.

    The DMTE is a better choice for routine use, but is much slower if you want to lap hones/stones with it.

    You could pick up the DMTC for lapping and doing really rough sharpening duties, then pick up a cheap 1k waterstone at a hardware store (about $20) to maintain the bevels on your knives day to day.

    a 4k stone wouldn't hurt either, if your into above average sharpness.

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    JAS eTea, LLC netsurfr's Avatar
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    I would get the DMTC for lapping hones and repairing knives that are really in bad shape but if you keep your knives fairly sharp, then this hone is really too coarse for kitchen knives.

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    OK, I've been talking to Ben, but I'll throw this out here too.

    I have two hone goals. Keep my, yet to be received, straight razor sharp (kenrup wapi) and to keep my wusthof knives sharp. I've got the huge mega block set. I cook all the time. The steak knives get an obvious beating, and I use almost all the knives on a regular basis. Only knife I really don't use is the slicer, I tend to just grab the chef's knife or santuko.

    They're still quite sharp, but will need work eventually.

    I could probably read more threads on both forums to figure this out, but since I've started this one I might as well continue.

    What would be a setup to last me nearly forever to both keep my straights sharpened, lap my stones (if needed), keep my cooking knives sharp and maybe fix up a few e-bay blades. (either old rusty blades or a NIB Double Arow or Wapi)

    I'm probably going to start with the DA or Wapi, and see how close I can come to the Kenrup blade that I should get Monday or Tuesday.

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    As another question, how does the DMT EE rate to the 12k or 16k stones? As I understand it, the grit/mesh isn't really comparable.

    Has anyone made a table showing equivalent smoothness? (ie: DMTC is between a 1k and a 4k norton...)

    If not, I'd be interested in compiling the data into a multi-colored chart if someone would help me with it. That's something I'd find really helpful. To compare all the stones out there, and then put together sets to fit both needs and budgets.

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