Thread: Interesting hone test results.

Your thought process is good. One of the tools I use in this endeavor is a GAR G-4 Surface Comparator set. It's a tool used as a reference tool for surface finishes. It's used by tool and die makers and others concerned with precision. You can use it to compare surface finishes on metals but metal/stone comparisons would not be as good. The comparator and the reference should be of the same material.

Originally Posted by JimmyHAD

I'm thinking of getting the D8XX. The rational being that if I do the initial lapping with the XX I won't be risking my D8C wearing prematurely. I can put another pencil grid on the stone and then smooth it out with the C.

Like Rajagra I have also run into stones that have low spots in the corners and I have chosen to leave them and work around them. The pencil grid is still there and I can see the areas I need to avoid. As the stone wears I will eventually lap down to that level. Why take off good honing surface if it isn't necessary.

The XX may work faster. I have a friend who avidly collects hones. He sharpens razors but not often. His thing is lapping. He likes to buy a hone and lap it. Check out the slurry and the surface as it evolves. My least favorite thing in the sport is lapping. If the XX will cut faster it will be worth it to me.

I have them both too, and I would agree that having both speeds up the process (plus saves on wear). My comment was based on Rajagra stating he wished he had only the D8XX instead of the D8C. IMO, having the D8C is better than the D8XX if only one can be owned.

Originally Posted by xChris

I have them both too, and I would agree that having both speeds up the process (plus saves on wear). My comment was based on Rajagra stating he wished he had only the D8XX instead of the D8C. IMO, having the D8C is better than the D8XX if only one can be owned.

Maybe I should've used my Norton flattening stone. Of course I'd need to lap that first and ... hold on isn't that where I came in?

Now you guys have had the Dragons Tongue for a while how would you rate do the stone. For example where in your honing progression whould you use the DT? How would you compare it to other stones for finishing? I'm not asking for exact numbers etc just you first hand experiences!

Thanks!

It is a polisher, but one gentleman on here says it cuts very fast !

Originally Posted by littlesilverbladefromwale

It is a polisher, but one gentleman on here says it cuts very fast !

Well it certainly did before it was lapped smooth! And since I am unlikely to lap both sides, I still have the option to use the rough side.

I've only used it once as a finisher and it did a fine job. I'm beginning to wish my razors would go blunt quicker so I can experiment more!

I have no other 12K or higher hones to compare it with (except diamond paste on balsa.)

Originally Posted by JimmyHAD

I'm thinking of getting the D8XX. The rational being that if I do the initial lapping with the XX I won't be risking my D8C wearing prematurely. I can put another pencil grid on the stone and then smooth it out with the C.

Like Rajagra I have also run into stones that have low spots in the corners and I have chosen to leave them and work around them. The pencil grid is still there and I can see the areas I need to avoid. As the stone wears I will eventually lap down to that level. Why take off good honing surface if it isn't necessary.

The XX may work faster. I have a friend who avidly collects hones. He sharpens razors but not often. His thing is lapping. He likes to buy a hone and lap it. Check out the slurry and the surface as it evolves. My least favorite thing in the sport is lapping. If the XX will cut faster it will be worth it to me.

Me too Jimmy, My D8C is already showing signs of wear from the extensive hone lapping I do. My D8F feels more coarse than the D8C.

Originally Posted by Rajagra

I did a pretty extreme test on a spare razor. Abused it pretty badly on a DMT 8C (325 grit) then a D8E (1200grit) then went straight to the Dragon's Tongue.

After 30 laps the bevel already had a nice polish. After 100 most of the DMT scratches were gone, after 200 nearly all were gone. I continued untill 400 but some deep scratches remained. I wouldn't normally run a razor over the D8C!

Using a normal progression you wouldn't need to use many laps on a DT at all.

(Blade was a Joseph Allen non-xxl)

Was this using the lapped side of the hone? Curious if there was a big difference between lapped and unlapped speed b/c of your post from today.

I'd be interested in how these compare to a spyderco UF, it'd be nice if I could get one of these cheaper hones instead. Hopefully someone who owns both can compare them at some point.

Originally Posted by Pete_S

Was this using the lapped side of the hone? Curious if there was a big difference between lapped and unlapped speed b/c of your post from today.

Ah yes, that was after lapping! So even when smooth, the DT started fairly quickly, converting the rough edge to a quite polished edge in about 30 laps. It did seem to peter out when trying to remove the deep scratches, but they were unnaturally deep because of how I did the test.

So the lapped DT is fast to polish, but slow at bulk removing metal.

I suspect that, like a coticule, it would be very hard to overhone using a DT.

(BTW although I only did one session honing usable razors with the DT, I did do 3 at once, they all shaved well.)