Thread: Honing at the high end grits

Originally Posted by Lesslemming

...try to determine where the problem lies. What happens when you hit the 8k after the 4k? Does the edge get more smooth, do arm hairs shave more easily? Is HHT possible?
And is this smoothenes, or keenes comprimised after you strop?

This way you might be able to make out what you have to work on;
honing skills or stropping skills.

I've acquired 4 blades recently, each of which has varying amounts of smile. That meant I've been working that same stroke (and it's not easy). After spending untold time on a large swayback wedge, the stroke got a little better, but the main prob for me was my stropping. I made a 3" latigo strop, and noticed the toe is never as sharp as any other part of the edge. 'Tried cleaning, oiling, hand rubbing, bottle rubbing - nothing would take the bow out of the strop. I read that the 3" strops are much more prone to getting a wave in one direction or another. So I made one 2.5" wide, and it went from chopping the course chest hair to chopping the super fine head hair.

I also just finished bringing in a difficult blade. Middle to heel cut course hair, but not the fine hair. Back to the canvas (30 more), then leather (80 more). The fine hair would then either slit or chop - progress. Going back multiple times to the canvas & then leather has brought in several razors now. To verify I had a wavy strop, I laid a flat edge on the strop while holding the handle - like I was stropping. There was plenty of room (light showing) at the toe & heel - on a flat/straight blade.

We'll get there. Being a noob aint easy, but perseverance or stupidity (in my case, too dumb to know when to quit) will get us there.

My Kanayama strop drops away slightly at the edges too. It's not a problem. You can adjust your stroke on the strop as you would on a hone. I think there are as many non flat strops in existence as there are warped razors.

Originally Posted by Deckard

+1 on the bevel setting, this is key and make sure spine and edge are flat on the stone before coming off the 1 k or what ever bevel setting method adopted. Keeping the edge and spine flat throughout the stroke with minimal/zero pressure is paramount..

If you're doing a rolling X, isn't this pretty much impossible? You have to lift the blade to get the toe and heel.

Also, I've never actually done the HHT on a razor before hitting the strop. Maybe I'll try it and see if maybe my stropping is what's doing more harm than good.

I'll also probably try the pyramids and maybe spend more time on the canvas/stropping.

Thanks so much for all the feedback so far. I'll keep you guys posted on any changes or progress.

Originally Posted by tmac123

If you're doing a rolling X, isn't this pretty much impossible? You have to lift the blade to get the toe and heel.

Yes, of course but spine & edge must still contact tho not always flat.

This may be a foolish question, but have you considered you may be over-honing and developing a wire edge? That would explain everything you've said. You may be over-sharpening on the 4k and then getting a wire-edge on the 8k.

Also, putting chromium oxide on the linen strop is sufficient. You don't need it on the finish leather side.

Originally Posted by tmac123

If you're doing a rolling X, isn't this pretty much impossible? You have to lift the blade to get the toe and heel.

Also, I've never actually done the HHT on a razor before hitting the strop. Maybe I'll try it and see if maybe my stropping is what's doing more harm than good.

I'll also probably try the pyramids and maybe spend more time on the canvas/stropping.

Thanks so much for all the feedback so far. I'll keep you guys posted on any changes or progress.

With my razors I have only used rolling x pattern once, I don't know what the correct technique is but in my case the roll was very subtle. In fact I would say it is more of a pressure thing and the edge dosen't leave the stone surface.
Anyway on that occassion this did the trick, I was also sweeping in an arc like you would for a smiler.
Generally I haven't found the need to use rolling x if I get the spine and edge parallel and both flat on the stone. Horor of horrors I've even been known to deliberatley hone an uneven spine down to achieve this.
There will occassionaly be awkward blades that require a little finessing of these principles from time to time.