Thread: Honing at the high end grits

So I've been trying to hone this Dovo Razor. I feel like I have a good system down, but obviously not perfect.

The problem I'm having is that I can get it to pop hairs at the 4k level. Then I move onto the 8k level. After that I strop on linen, then leather. At BEST I can get the razor to "peel" a hair in the HHT and usually only on one part of the razor.

In addition, the quality of the shave just isn't good enough when compared to a Shave Ready razor. It still pulls and tugs just a bit, and the area under my chin just can't handle it.

So my question is this: Where do I go from here? Back to the 4 k or the 8k?

Keep in mind I've gone back to the 8k a few times and I always get to the same level or sharpness (or lack thereof). I just don't know if maybe I'm not doing enough on the 8k, or possibly too much. Or, if I went back to the 4k if I'd be doing more harm than good.

Any suggestions?

I usually don't do more than 15 to 20 strokes on a Norton or Naniwa Superstone 8k. Actually I often only do 10.

How many are you doing on the 8K?

Though you say that it pops hairs on the 4k, are you certain the bevel is fully set? Did anyone else ever hone this razor or are you the first? Are you confident in your stropping? Have you lapped your hones?

There is no harm in going back to the 4K unless you are doing it wrong and screwing up the edge or spine. Other than that the only harm is steel loss, which should be minimal.

For me, if a razor tugs, it means I didn't do what I needed to on my Naniwa 5k, or maybe I didn't get the bevel fully set. 1k should pop arm hairs off when you use a normal shaving stroke (proper angle, minimal pressure, edge on the skin). If you know your bevel can do that, then it's likely whatever hone you go to after that.

My first thought when you say the blade is showing an uneven amount of sharpness across the length is it needs more work on the lower grit to even up the bevel.

Honing is a 4 step process

It really doesn't matter how those steps are taken, or what they are taken with, you have to climb the honing ladder in this order...

Step 1. Set the bevel, it has to be sharp from toe to heel, not sorta sharp, not pretty much there, if the bevel isn't set correctly you are just wasting time... the edge should be about 90% there before you leave this first step

Step 2. Sharpen the razor, the edge is going to get within 98% of as sharp as it can possibly get in this step

Step 3. Polish the edge, the edge is going to get very smooth now and barely any sharper, but this is where most of the shaving comfort comes from.. The edge should be at 99% now

Step 4. The Finisher, could be a high grit stone, could be a paste, could be a good stropping, or a combination of all these things, but this step is all personal.. and the last 1% is right here

If you don't take all 4 steps, in that order, you will not make it to a shave ready edge...If you try and skip a step, or rush a step you will fall...


Of course this is JMHO of how honing works

+1 on all the advice already given.

I really think that the key part of honing is the bevel set. If you dont get that right you'll end up with a very shiny but very dull razor.

As Dylan says, make sure you can shave arm hair at all points along the blade. You shouldnt have to use lots of pressure to do this, it should just shave the hairs away with no fuss at all and if you cant do this, stay on the 1k until you can.

If you're doing lots of strokes on the 1k and not getting anywhere, or there is an area of the blade, or the whole blade, thats still dull then you need to change your stroke or approach slightly, or add or remove tape or something. Dont keep doing what you're doing because it wont come right on its own! But the end result should still be that you can easily shave arm hairs off that stone.

Once you can, all the other stones progress pretty easily and the rest of the honing kinda falls into place!

Good luck and keep us posted!

+1 Glens' post says it all! Spot on!


R

Thanks to all the responses.

Originally Posted by Utopian

Though you say that it pops hairs on the 4k, are you certain the bevel is fully set? Did anyone else ever hone this razor or are you the first? Are you confident in your stropping? Have you lapped your hones?

As for the bevel, I feel fairly confident that it's set. At the 1k I was able to cut arm hair along all points of the blade with ease, against skin, using minimal pressure.

At the 4k I was able to pop hairs just above the skin.

I've lapped all the hones when I first started. And after a couple times of looping through the rotation I went back and re-lapped the 4k/8k since that's the one I've always gone back to.

Originally Posted by Utopian

I usually don't do more than 15 to 20 strokes on a Norton or Naniwa Superstone 8k. Actually I often only do 10.

How many are you doing on the 8K?.

A lot more. I remember reading somewhere that some guy knew he had to do a minimum of 40 on the 8k. Maybe I'm doing too much?




It seems like I might be doing too much on the 8k since all of the requirements for "sharpness" on the previous stones seems to be met.

I'll give it some more love tonight and give you guys an update.


Also as a side note, I'm having to use a Rolling X stroke for this blade. I feel like I've gotten the hang of it, but obviously haven't mastered it. This could also explain the uneveness in the sharpness on the blade, but I would think that the center of the blade should still be an appropriate level of sharp to shave with. This is why I'm thinking it's a matter of overhoning on the 8k.

Thanks for all the feedback!

Good advices given.

I find that when I want to dial in a razor on the 8K or another finishing hones and when it is close, but just not there that 3-5 X strokes followed by stropping and testing a couple times will usually bring it around if all the previous pre-requisites are met. Sometimes just 10 strokes on CrOx or .5 diamond spray or Cerium will do the job as well.

Have fun,

Lynn

You mentioned in the first post that the blade was sharp in only one place, have you checked the blade to see if it is warped and are you keeping an even contact of blade to stone with an equal pressure(possibly rocking the blade)?