Thread: What's Wrong With This Edge?

Today I hit a curious problem with a razor I'm honing. It's a lovely Robeson Shur Edge. As you can see, beautiful scales. The blade had no visible rust, only a dark patina which I actually like so I decided not to sand-polish the blade, just clean it and give a light sanding to remove any surface debris.

Today I honed the razor. I've now honed maybe 6 Robeson Shur Edge razors. I love them, they seem to "take to the hone" and get an easy shaving edge. I've been delighted so far.

I confess also, I have not yet shaved with this razor so this might all be moot. Still, under the 'scope at maybe 120X I saw something that puzzled me and I would like the opinions of the honists and honemeisters in the house.

The process I took was to start on the DMT 325 for maybe 15 light laps to remove any irregularities from the edge and give me a nice surface for setting the bevel

DMT 1200 for bevel setting using alternating hard circules (sets of 20) and X strokes until the razor would shave leg-hair WTG cleanly. I didn't actually like the way this edge came up--it was leaving a little hair but (stupidly?) after being on the 1200 so long, I thought I'd go on up the progression.

Naniwa 3K for about 75 X strokes, then the Naniwa 8K for 50 laps, finishing on the Naniwa 12K for 50 laps. I have not yet stropped the blade. At this point, i would strop and shave and decide if it needs a pasted strop or if it's great as is.

But I decided after the 12K to look at the edge, thinking such an old edge might have micro chips etc. The first shot is the razor itself (showing off how pretty it is). The second is a section of the edge that looks (to me) normal. The third is in the center of the blade and I just don't know what I"m looking at. Under various lights it's still there.

Your input is eagerly sought and much appreciated.

Looks to me like the bevel isnt quite making it to the very edge on that last picture. The middle picture looks right, but the last one doesnt.

That says to me that you need to go back to your 1200 DMT the bevel is uniform, even and goes right to the edge. You say that the blade was leaving a little hair when you came off the 1200 DMT? That may well be the problem - You moved on up the stones too early.

You should easily be able to shave arm hair right down to the skin off the bevel setter. If you can't do that, then stay on that stone until you can. The bevel setting is the most time consuming part of honing, and it takes as long as it takes really..!

Thanks. I wonder if I need a layer of tape on the spine?

Originally Posted by Stubear

Looks to me like the bevel isnt quite making it to the very edge on that last picture. The middle picture looks right, but the last one doesnt.

That says to me that you need to go back to your 1200 DMT the bevel is uniform, even and goes right to the edge. You say that the blade was leaving a little hair when you came off the 1200 DMT? That may well be the problem - You moved on up the stones too early.

You should easily be able to shave arm hair right down to the skin off the bevel setter. If you can't do that, then stay on that stone until you can. The bevel setting is the most time consuming part of honing, and it takes as long as it takes really..!

Yep, that could definately help. It raises the spine slightly and concentrates the hone on the very edge of the razor.

I always use one layer of tape on the spine when I hone and if I want to set a sort of "pre-bevel" I go up to two layers of tape. Once I can shave arm hair with two layers, I move back down to one layer and set a true bevel and then go from there.

+1 with Stu

Looks like that tiny spot is missing it...

Your doing too many laps after the bevel set IMO too, if the bevel is truly "SET" it should not take more than 20 or so laps to polish to that stage...

NOW

I do not use the DMT's other than restorations because they do tend to cut deep, so I could be wrong about that many laps on the second stone (3k)... but I am right about the third (8k) and the fourth (12k)...

Just me but I would never start with a 325 unless there were major chips to remove. Micro chips and everything else start with the 1k or thereabouts. Maybe the 600 if it is really ugly but not the 325. IOW, the 325 can hurt more than help if it is not needed to begin with.

All good advice given above. I learned a long time ago that counting either time, strokes or circles is not a way to determine if the bevel is set. It's time to move up to the next hone when the edge says it is and not a moment before that. Lesson learned from the school of hard knocks.

Thanks all for the advice! I think I have a plan now for this razor. I'll let you know how it turns out.

and the black marker test works great in times like this it lets you know what is going on.

Is it just my eyes or does that razor have a slight frown ? I think that may account for the centre not getting fully set. I can't see the spine wear in the pic but sometimes the spine may need correcting also or judicious placement of tape.
Some good info here you haven't seen it already:
Honing: Troubleshooting Guide - Straight Razor Place Wiki