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  1. #1
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    Default Wade and Butcher bevel setting

    Hi,

    I'm trying to restore an old W&B wedge with a nice smile on it.

    I've put 4 layers of tape on the spine because it's a near full wedge and I want to preserve the etchings on the blade.

    After spending three hours on a 220 stone, I still cannot get one part or the blade to cut arm hair... the rest of the blade is just fine, but there is a part about an inch long and about 1/4 inch from the toe that just doesn't seem to want to get a proper bevel... I've also tried on a 1k for about 1 hour, same result.

    Also, I can see little indentations along the blade... I'd like to get rid of those.

    Any ideas ?


    Thanks!!

    Phil

  2. #2
    illegitimum non carborundum Utopian's Avatar
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    Try the magic marker test. Lightly draw with a marker on the bevel of the blade. Do a few strokes on the hone to see where you are failing to make contact.

  3. #3
    Senior Member eleblu05's Avatar
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    Default

    i agree with utopian try the marker test when sharpening a razor with a smile and your not getting the toe of the razor try rocking the blade towards the toe (lifting up on the handle slightly)

  4. #4
    illegitimum non carborundum Utopian's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by philippecote View Post
    Also, I can see little indentations along the blade... I'd like to get rid of those.
    Could you show photos of this or describe it further?

  5. #5
    They call me Mr Bear. Stubear's Avatar
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    Default

    Four layers of tape is probably a little more than you need as well. Try using three layers to set a pre-bevel (after which you will be able to shave arm hairs) then move down to one layer.

    And another +1 here for the marker test, that will show you where you're not making contact.

  6. #6
    Senior Member blabbermouth hi_bud_gl's Avatar
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    Default

    Sorry to say.
    if you don't have experience honing blades i would be against your idea to sharpen wedge blade which is useful in long run.(my undersanding is you like to make it shave ready and use that blade)
    Try to learn how to hone blade in ugly blades from bay.
    what will happen is when you don't know (don't have better polite way to say-sorry) what are you doing You will end up making your wade$butcher useless at the end.

    You are saying have been honing on 220 grit hone more then 3 hours and you cannot get blade to cut any arm hair???
    In fact you won't. you are looking wrong sign.
    if you were using 1k stone and was saying i am having above problem then it will be different .

    Now if you are persistent and want to job get done then go head move to 1k stone and spend some time .
    lets know what is going on.
    Lastly maybe the most important. Post pictures this will help us to see where is the problem.
    Good luck

  7. #7
    Str8 & Loving It BladeRunner001's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by hi_bud_gl View Post
    Sorry to say.
    if you don't have experience honing blades i would be against your idea to sharpen wedge blade which is useful in long run.(my undersanding is you like to make it shave ready and use that blade)
    Try to learn how to hone blade in ugly blades from bay.
    what will happen is when you don't know (don't have better polite way to say-sorry) what are you doing You will end up making your wade$butcher useless at the end.

    You are saying have been honing on 220 grit hone more then 3 hours and you cannot get blade to cut any arm hair???
    In fact you won't. you are looking wrong sign.
    if you were using 1k stone and was saying i am having above problem then it will be different .

    Now if you are persistent and want to job get done then go head move to 1k stone and spend some time .
    lets know what is going on.
    Lastly maybe the most important. Post pictures this will help us to see where is the problem.
    Good luck
    +1...I agree with Sham. Don't hone a blade you care about. Send it out...wedges can be nightmares.

    Does the blade lay flat on the hone around the toe or does it have wiggle room? That could be why you are not getting that "region" beveled right.

  8. #8
    Senior Member blabbermouth JimmyHAD's Avatar
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    I agree except they don't have to be ugly blades necessarily.
    Be careful how you treat people on your way up, you may meet them again on your way back down.

  9. #9
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    Quote Originally Posted by Utopian View Post
    Try the magic marker test. Lightly draw with a marker on the bevel of the blade. Do a few strokes on the hone to see where you are failing to make contact.
    I agree completely.

    I actually had a W&B wedge that required a roll on the heel of only one side if the blade. Kind of weird, but the marker test was what identified the problem.

  10. #10
    ..mama I know we broke the rules... Maxi's Avatar
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    Default W and B

    I had a thread about this same thing two or so weeks ago. I feel your pain.

    I did the magic marker test after a few strokes, and noticed that there was no contact around the toe (and only on one side). The rolling X stroke helped this issue.

    I'm nowhere near shave ready with this razor. I'm taking it slow, a little at a time, evaluating every step before I pick up the hones again.

    I hear what everyone is saying about "send it out". And in some ways I agree, it's much less frustrating. However, politely, I think this forum is for gaining and using information for each individual and their specific circumstance. I have only honed hollows previous to this wedge, but at some point....any wedge will have to be my first wedge, and then after that, I'll hone my second wedge, and so on. Each time I tackle a project that is new, I learn something. You've got to push yourself to become better.

    Post some photos for hi_bud_gl. Get a marker. Make a cup of coffee. Hone the wedge. Have fun. If you get frustrated, put it down and try again later after thinking about the next step.

    Good luck,

    Maxi

  11. The Following User Says Thank You to Maxi For This Useful Post:

    wdwrx (10-10-2010)

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