Thread: coti slurry on synthetic?

Does coti slurry on synthetic or manmade works? Have any body tried it? If so, what were the result? Juan?

I have never tried it but I don't see why not.

I mean some synthetics are used with their own slurry, I'm not sure how much the coti slurry will matter tho.

That being said don't be afraid to experiment, try what you want and Yoh might be surprised at the results. Just remember if it turns out to the best thing ever you have to post your results so we can all copy it lol.

+1, all I can suggest is to give it a try..!

I believe the producer of the coticules in Belgium saves the sludge from cutting those stones for this very possiblity: selling garnet mud for improving the performance of those synthetic upstarts.

insprirations abound...

I think any abrasive, on any surface, will work to abrade steel, if the surface and the abrasive is harder than the steel. I haven't tried that either. I'm satisfied with the performance of the stones as they are. Doesn't hurt to experiment though if you're so inclined. Robert Williams said he got real good results with diamond spray on a hard ceramic, the Spyderco UF.

I've read this before on here...I believe some College guys were using Coti slurry on everything from strops, to different hones...You can try anything. I've always read that it's preferable to keep your slurries the same as the host hone. The subject of cross contamination was brought up...Coti slurry works really good on Coti's....
The only time I mixed it up was Coti slurry on a BBW (same family), and vice versa... but I'm with Jimmy. I've always been happy with the results I get from my stones as they are...

Originally Posted by juannaredo

Does coti slurry on synthetic or manmade works? Have any body tried it? If so, what were the result? Juan?

You bet man, Coti slurry, J-nat slurry, Escher slurry. I hate wasting the slurry off these expensive stones too. It is kind of redundant but it’s fun to experiment. I have not tried on the Spyderco hones or any stone substrates as I would not want to contaminate the stone. However I have applied to many types of nylon webbing, polyurethane, polyethylene sheet stock or linen or leather for “stropping”.
Be careful not to roll the blade as these will dull a blade very fast if you are not careful. If I strop on a treated strop with J-nat or Escher slurry, you only need 7 to 10 very light passes. It’s similar to refreshing an edge on a high quality barber hone.
Mike

Coti slurry does work nicely on synthetic hones. I've used it on the lower end with nice results. It speeds up the cut rate, and also prevents the synthetic hone from loading with metal (I don't know why, but I would guess either the slurry gets in the hone first and prevents metal from doing so, or the slurry wears away at the hone faster and exposes fresh grit).

I never did it enough to develop any kind of a method, other than I used my normal strokes but played around. My best advice to someone who wants to try it would also be "play with it and see what it does for you."

Also, on the lower grit hones, there is no worry about contamination, because the coti slurry is so much finer. You only need to worry about lower grit on higher grit hones.

I've used bbw slurry on my norton before with a good result, I don't see why coticule slurry would hurt but it may be faster. If you look in the videos area of the forums you will see Ken Rup from Ruprazor.com using bbw slurry on nortons as well.

That being said, all these hones work fine alone, its all in good fun.

Why not? Give it a whirl! What's the worst that could happen--you have to go back to your bevel setter? At least you had fun w/ a new experiment. And remember Edison's quote about failure being simply discovering many ways that didn't work...

Seriously (or rather as serious as I can be loaded w/ premium rum as I am at the moment ), many tricks in this sport were discovered by accident when someone just tried something for fun & later discovered that it worked pretty well.