Bringing a shave-ready razor back to the coticule

**McNutt** · 04-08-2011, 03:56 PM

I’ve taken three razors from dull to shave ready using a coticule. One of them shaves very well while the other two are not quite as sharp and don’t glide across the face as easily. Those two will shave whiskers, but they don’t pass the HHT as well as the other one. I know the shave test is the best test, but I’d give them a C+ on the shave test while the other gets an A-.

I want to bring those to the A level, so where should I start with the honing? They have an edge, so I don’t need to work on establishing that. Should I take it back to a light slurry or just hit the coticule with plain water for awhile? I know I can use a pasted strop (don’t have one of those yet), but the blade needs to have a sharper edge before I get to that step. Any suggestions?

Thanks

**thebigspendur** · 04-08-2011, 04:27 PM

Well personally if I had a "dull" razor I wouldn't be using a coticule on it. I'd be going back (depending on how the bevel was doing) to possibly the 4K or 6K and then the 8K. I only use the coticule as a polisher.

**McNutt** · 04-08-2011, 04:31 PM

That's not an option right now as I only have the coticule. I'm assuming I can bring these two razors from sorta sharp to really sharp since I got the first razor from dull as a board to really sharp.
Maybe one day I'll have the full compliment of hones. One day. . .

**JimmyHAD** · 04-08-2011, 04:33 PM

Since you've got two that are roughly in the same condition try doing one with light slurry, diluting to clear water, and the other with just water. If you don't get good results take TBS advice and go to a lower grit stone and begin again. When I first started with this honing stuff Randy told me that it was not at all unusual for him to return to the hones multiple times to further dial an edge in. I have found that to be true for me too.

**gssixgun** · 04-08-2011, 04:47 PM

Watch and learn, this is what I named a "pigtail stroke", do about 20 on light slurry, then dilute to clear water, over the next 20 strokes and the 10 perfect finish strokes, watch the razor jump inline..
Maybe 20 maybe 30 maybe 40 Pigtails, the razor will decide.. This only works to re-fresh it does not re-cut a bad bevel...

YouTube - Razor Sharpening (YouTube - Razor Sharpening

**pcb01** · 04-08-2011, 10:34 PM

You might try Bart's Unicot finishing strategy. Add a layer of tape (or a second layer if you originally honed with tape) and polish on very light slurry (x20 or so) followed by water (50 or so) or just water. This will concentrate the stone on the very edge of the bevel, and will often take a so-so edge to a great edge.

**McNutt** · 04-09-2011, 05:27 PM

I hit the coticule again last night with mixed success. One razor jumped up to A- quality while the other did not improve. I might try the unicot method on that one. I think I've been doing too many honing strokes and using too much pressure. I'm trying hard to keep it light.

Thanks

Tony

**randydance062449** · 04-10-2011, 06:57 AM

Your finishing strokes on a coticule need to be light...maybe 25-50 laps. Just stay with the water only, don't jump to a new method yet.

**Lynn** · 04-10-2011, 02:39 PM

This is a point that I normally call dialing a razor in when it starts getting close. I would do 10 X strokes with light slurry, then 10 X strokes with water only and use no pressure. Strop and test. Usually the razor will get there in a couple tries and if not, then back to a lower grit stone. A normal X stroke and it does not have to be a full X all the way across the stone will keep the slurry moving across the stone for you.

Have fun,

Lynn

**zib** · 04-10-2011, 03:30 PM

It's hard to give spot on advice since Coticules are not consistent. They're all different, no two cut alike IME. So, If I took a Sheffield that was dulling and used my Coticule, and did 20 w/slurry, diluted, did 20 more, then did 20 with water, it may work for me, but not for you. Is your Coticule pink?, Green, mustard yellow, soft, hard....? As thebigspendur said, They are basically finishers.

Your going to have to experiment. Light strokes are the ticket if the bevel is set. Like Lynn said, You at the point where you need to dial it in, and knowing your own stones capabilities helps tremendously. I'd do like he said, 10 slurry, 10 water, strop, test...or, 10 slurry, 10 dilute, 10 water.....depending on how far off you are.....Watch how fast the slurry darkens, this is a good indicator of how fast your stone cuts...Does it darken is 10 strokes, 20 strokes.....?

P.S. When you can, invest in a bevel setter, (1k) and at the least a 4k stone...You'll be glad you did......

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