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Thread: Need diagnostic help...
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08-10-2006, 03:58 PM #21
Joe put it in more eloquent words than I did. Listen to him Josh, as he knows what he's doing and then some.
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08-10-2006, 04:26 PM #22
Joe, as I understand it, the thumbnail test consists of wetting your nail and drawing the razor's edge over the surface of the nail with as little pressure as possible. I've been trying that, and the edge does seem to bite in just a little, leaving a small groove, and it feels consistent over the whole edge. It doesn't slip or feel rough. Does it sound like I'm on the right track?
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08-10-2006, 04:29 PM #23Originally Posted by joshearl
And I'm going to disagree with, Joe ( AGAIN!!) but only just a little. While a whole pyramid (up to 25 4k laps) is overkill when you're very close, I often find that if I'm continually stymied trying to finish an edge off, I can go back and with a pyramid up to 10, get a good foundation for the completion of the edge. each circumstance is unique and you'll have to decide what you think you should try.
X
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08-10-2006, 04:47 PM #24Originally Posted by joshearl
The thumbnail test is done in a few places along the blade. I like either end and the middle. You may get different results at different spots. All spots need to pass the test. For a more detailed explanation of what the test results mean, go to classicshaving.com, the "how to ... and why" section. See the subsection on honing.
From your descriiption, it seems your blade may pass the test. Just make sure it passes the tilt test.
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08-10-2006, 04:53 PM #25Originally Posted by xman
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08-11-2006, 03:10 AM #26Originally Posted by Joe Lerch
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08-11-2006, 12:52 PM #27
Well, the pyramids seem to be working. I did five or six last night, and this morning the razor was actually shaving, although it was tugging badly around my chin. Although it wasn't even in the neighborhood of a close shave, it did knock my stubble down quite a bit with one pass.
The edge does seem to pass the 45-degree tilt part of the thumbnail test. It's starting to bite more as I drag it across my nail, too.
I'm realizing that what I thought was a smooth-looking edge (viewing through the 60x Radio Shack microscope) was actually more like a crosscut saw blade. Now my edge is more polished, and the teeth are so small I can barely make them out.
I'll do a few more pyramids tonight, I guess. The heel and point of the edge still seem like they need work.
Is it possible to develop a wire edge if you stick with the pyramids and use light pressure?
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08-11-2006, 01:37 PM #28Originally Posted by joshearl
I'm realizing that what I thought was a smooth-looking edge (viewing through the 60x Radio Shack microscope) was actually more like a crosscut saw blade. Now my edge is more polished, and the teeth are so small I can barely make them out.
As you noticed, there will be some sharpness after the edge is set. That's why you need to do a sharpness (HHT) just before the first pyramid. You probably won't be there yet, but you want to know how close you are. If you just happen to be close you don't want to overshoot the point of keeness by doing too much. If you happen to be lucky you may be real close, and you could end up requiring less than a full pyramid.
Is it possible to develop a wire edge if you stick with the pyramids and use light pressure?
If it feels like you're almost there and suddenly the sharpness drops way down, if you had good clean metal on the bevels, you've probably gone over the top and just removed a wire edge. Grab the microscope and see if you now have a new rollercoaster pattern. If the metal looks clean and not discolored or microscopically rusted (in spots) you probably removed a wire edge.
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08-11-2006, 02:23 PM #29
Joe,
Very intuitive point, as some, I think, believe the pyramid by itself wards off overhoning and wire edges. Very good thread.
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08-11-2006, 03:48 PM #30Originally Posted by FiReSTaRT