Thread: First time honing!

For what it's worth, when you're new to honing I would seriously recommend sticking with good ol' X strokes. Circles require a different level of skill, pressure and experience. X strokes are the most user friendly stroke for developing muscles that you really didn't know you have.

DPS, I agree that the bevel is the most important aspect of honing. I disagree that you need to start with a dull blade, although I can see the benefit to a someone who is just learning.

Stay on the 1K until every single section of that blade pops arm hair off.....then move up.

In my book, when you hone you never want to do anything intentional to degrade the edge. If you are resetting the bevel that action will produce the bevel you need.You don't need to damage the edge and then undo the damage.

Of course you "don't want to damage the edge", but for the purpose of learning is just great to see the "progress". This was quite hard for me, my first 20 razors or so I always damaged the edge and started from scratch. Now I can tell sharpness better so I don't have to do that, but the first few times it was key.

Originally Posted by Maxi

For what it's worth, when you're new to honing I would seriously recommend sticking with good ol' X strokes. Circles require a different level of skill, pressure and experience. X strokes are the most user friendly stroke for developing muscles that you really didn't know you have.

DPS, I agree that the bevel is the most important aspect of honing. I disagree that you need to start with a dull blade, although I can see the benefit to a someone who is just learning.

Stay on the 1K until every single section of that blade pops arm hair off.....then move up.

does it matter how long i stay on the 1k because like i mentioned im scared of over honing.. thanks!

Originally Posted by vvti713

does it matter how long i stay on the 1k because like i mentioned im scared of over honing.. thanks!

"How long" is not the issue, "How Sharp" is the question...

The edge has to go from /\ to this ^ (very bad visual) the two sides have to meet to form an edge, once that happens from toe to heel then you have a set bevel, until that happens you need to keep setting the bevel (1k or otherwise)... To move up a grit is a huge waste of time until you have a sharp edge, that will normally cut arm hair, pass the TNT, or at the very least feel like the sharpest knife edge you have ever touched...

The true trick to honing is knowing when to stop doing what you have been doing when to move to the next hone, and when to move to the shave test...

Stay on the 1K level until you can pop arm hair at the heel and the toe, the middle of the razor should be ok if the two polar ends pop hair. When stroking at 1K if the edge feels smooth on the hone and one spot feels "bitey" or rough you need to work that rough spot more to match the feeling of the rest of the edge. Don't be scared of overhoning, it takes a lot to overhone if your razor is dull, make sure it shaves. at 1K like I said.

in the nutshell:

hone on 1K until it pops hair at heel and toe
make sure the whole edge feels smooth on the hone or you need to work out the rough spots.

Done.

Also do not worry about overhoning at all...it will likely not happen, and if it does it will be easy to tell. Hone in the 1K 20-30 strokes at a time until you see no improvement(shave arm hair). Once that happens move to the next. I've honed a lot in the Naniwa 1K and I think it just never overhones. Has anyone overhoned on naniwas ?

The good thing I've found on the naniwa's is that it sort of puts on a 1k polish which I haven't seen on other 1k bevel setters. Gives a good indication of how far you are from setting the bevel... as well as popping arm hair.

does it matter how long i stay on the 1k because like i mentioned im scared of over honing.. thanks!

Oh yeah, you wanna set that bevel, moving on before its set is like finishing building a car and then realising you don't have an engine. You would need to go back and take the car apart and start all over again, its the same with this. If the bevel doesn't get set and your off up to your 12k stone, it'll shave less than comfortable, if at all, and you'll have to come back to the start on the 1k.

I remember Glen actually described it quite well in a thread I can't find now, but after setting the bevel, your removing and refining the scratches on the SIDES of the bevel. but if you have a / \ shape your not refining the very edge because your bevel isn't fully formed. You want a /\ shape so the refining and removal of scratches goes right to that apex where the two points meet. Think of it as making a bridge to the apex and if the bridge isn't fully made, your lemmings are gonna full right off that bridge... I can see this going in the wiki. Please correct me if I'm wrong Glen

And you have to go quite a long way to overhone, just make sure your shaving arm hair, before you move on.

regards Alex

It's more likely that you will "underhone", and THINK you have "overhoned". The reality is that it takes a whole lot of work to overhone.

Don't be scared....especially at the 1k. You have to have those two sides of steel meet before you move up. Otherwise "shave ready" will be a pipe dream.