Thread: Not getting anywhere

So....honing is difficult to learn. No duh right? At any rate, first two honing attempts didn't work out so great, nothing catastrophic (thank god) but didn't come away with an edge that shaves hair. First attempt was a pyramid approach on the Norton 4k/8k (with 1-layer tape) as seen on the wiki here followed with 10 strokes on a crox balsa bench hone. Result? Nada. No sharper/better than before. Oooohhhhkkkaaaaayy, so I figure I'll reset the bevel. Got a 220/1k Norton so I did 20 strokes on the 1k (with 1-layer tape), passed the thumbnail test so back to the 4k/8k for another pyramid starting at 15 strokes., ten strokes on 12k stone (with 1-layer tape) followed by ten strokes on crox balsa. Aaaaannnndddd still nothing on the test shave, barely any beard came away. Switched to a razor that's actually sharp and it was smooth sailing.Any

Watching Lynn's DVD he mentions over-honing and I'm thinking that's where my razor is at now. Gliding over the beard without removing hair. My questions are: It was damn difficult for me to find any solid basics on setting a bevel, any place I should be looking? Should I run the edge along the 1k Norton to "kill" it before trying to set the bevel? Granted, each razor is different and each bevel-setting is going to be different, just curious if there's a place one should start, as a beginner of course. I used x-strokes and almost no pressure on the blade throughout the process but there's was no visual evidence of steel coming off the razor. No lines no grey nothing at all. Any thoughts on why? Can't imagine MORE pressure would be good (just doesn't seem right). Technique wasn't bad, in my opinion; went slow, kept razor flat on the stone, elbow up, soaked the stones, and had a spray bottle to keep em wet.

Any advice would be greatly appreciated! n

The TNT will dull the razor. You have to go back to the 1k after doing the TNT for a few laps. After that I always do the TPT to see if the bevel is set. I never use the TNT on anything higher than the 1k. In fact the only reason I do the TNT is to smooth out the edge some before continuing to set the bevel. The TPT will tell you alot once you get the sensations down.

Vicious..........

It's good you don't live in Missouri because "overhoning" is a felony in that state.

20 strokes on a 1k is not very much for setting a bevel, especially if your pressure is very light. Try a tiny bit more pressure, and continue on the 1k until its cutting arm hair easily. If it isn't at that stage, going up to higher grits won't do any good.

Have you tried the magic marker test to make sure you are getting all of the edge in contact with the hone?

Originally Posted by Matt69

20 strokes on a 1k is not very much for setting a bevel, especially if your pressure is very light. Try a tiny bit more pressure, and continue on the 1k until its cutting arm hair easily. If it isn't at that stage, going up to higher grits won't do any good.

Have you tried the magic marker test to make sure you are getting all of the edge in contact with the hone?

Lack of a properly set bevel was my thought as well. When I set a bevel I do it by feel but rarely do I do less than 60 laps of the 1k hone (up and back).

Agree with matt69. Bevel not set. Magic marker test and then go to town on the 1k. 100 laps for starters. I know Im gonna get yelled at. Then at least 40 -50 more. Keep going until it cuts arm hair. Do not go to a higher grit until that happens. If your bevel is real off, I would hit the 220 side for a bit. Make sure the hones are flat and check them every 20 minutes.

I too am suspecting a bevel setting problem. I found this thread to be very helpful: http://straightrazorpalace.com/honin...-1k-shave.html. I set my bevels on a Shapton GS 1K and spend a lot of time there, even though it is one of the fastest hones.

I start out with ~40 circles each side and quite some pressure, which creates a visible burr. Then another ~40 circles per side with less pressure, which reduces the burr somewhat. Then some medium pressure x-strokes until the burr is no longer visible, but it can be felt with the TPT. After that, 10-20 x-strokes with just the weight of the blade until the TPT feels (very) smooth. Only when I reach that smoothness, do I continue on a finer hone.

More experienced members have said it before: bevel setting is 90% of the work. You can shave from a very well set 1K bevel.

Whether your bevel is properly set or not is not a mystery. With bright light and a 10X loupe you can visualize the situation of the bevel and determine whether the two bevel sides are meeting in a good edge. If you can see the edge under bright light and magnification, then you don't have one yet. When the bevel is complete and the bevel is finished, the edge will be too thin to reflect light. If it is reflecting light, the bevel is incomplete. The problem with the TNT and TPT tests is that they are somewhat intuitive and take some learning and practice. Visual identification of a proper bevel and edge is comparatively objective and easy to accomplish.

Over-honing is doing more honing than necessary but rarely has any effect on the edge itself.

When I first started honing I had the same problem. TNT I thought the bevel was set. Then someone said keep honing until you have a bur. Then remove the bur with back honing and then do another 40 laps on the 1k. The amount of time required here was much more than I ever did before, but my edges came into place doing it that way. I have since got a handheld microscope and can do the visual.

u will have to use a good amount of pressure to get your bevels set.lighten up when your close to the finish.imagine tryin to cut a thin slice off the top of your hone.pratice is the only way to Carnegie hall.lol.good luck