Thread: Frustrated with 1K bevel

[QUOTE=gearhead222;1140614]Thanx again guys! Tried 100 or so strokes with the Imperial Razor "The Improved Eagle Razor" with tape on the spline on 220 grit and then tried around 80 strokes on the 1000 grit. before going to 40 or so strokes on the 4K and 8K each. Was not as sharp as I'd like, and so I went back to the 1000 grit and tried to get a shaveable bevel with no luck!
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gearhead..... Are you changing the tape after each 40-50 strokes or so??? Don't use the same piece of tape for the entire process. Electrical tape is approximately .007 " and extended use of the same piece of tape will wear the tape thinner and might be causing problems for you.

Jerry
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Originally Posted by gearhead222

Thanx again guys. Gssixgun, I realize that it's a touchy subject, but is electrical tape really required if the spine is significantly flattened? Seems to be such a volitile subject. Will try again tonight after work and start at 1K-John

People make it what it is Tape is not Required nor is No Tape whatever you want is fine..

Read Jerry's post above see what he says about the tape wearing out ???? that is way easier to replace then steel

PFJI --

I take Ace's approach:

. . . Take a 10x loupe and a good light, and _look at the edge_ !

Without that feedback, you're literally "working blind" -- counting strokes, instead of _seeing_ the bevel surface smooth out.

. Charles

Again, many thanx guys! I have a 30X illuminated jewelers loupe, but don't know what to look for other than smiles, frowns, wire edges and flat spots! Yes, I was using the same piece of tape-did not realize that it must be changed! Then again, I have been honing w/o tape as I'm following one VERY senior members advice, most of the razors I'm working with are inexpensive and have flattened spines to begin with and I figured that it's one less thing to worry about. Will keep you all updated, as this is really chapping my butt!-Gearhead-PS-Dear ACE and cpcohen1945, if I understand both of you correctly, am I supposed to have an edge that is THIN as possible that does NOT reflect light? With this particular razor, the edge is at least 2mm wide on either side and is indeed shiny. Some of my razors shave fine and have only a visible edge on one side though.Please explain, as I am totally out in left field

Get some magic marker stuff on it, then you'll see....

Will do!-FWIW guys, I have a notebook with MUCH of the forum information cut, pasted and printed. I have watched several videos and corresponded and spoke with several honemeisters. I will learn this!-Gearhead

Originally Posted by gearhead222

Again, many thanx guys! I have a 30X illuminated jewelers loupe, but don't know what to look for other than smiles, frowns, wire edges and flat spots! Yes, I was using the same piece of tape-did not realize that it must be changed! Then again, I have been honing w/o tape as I'm following one VERY senior members advice, most of the razors I'm working with are inexpensive and have flattened spines to begin with and I figured that it's one less thing to worry about. Will keep you all updated, as this is really chapping my butt!-Gearhead-PS-Dear ACE and cpcohen1945, if I understand both of you correctly, am I supposed to have an edge that is THIN as possible that does NOT reflect light? With this particular razor, the edge is at least 2mm wide on either side and is indeed shiny. Some of my razors shave fine and have only a visible edge on one side though.Please explain, as I am totally out in left field

The 2mm "edge" you are referring to is the bevel. That should reflect light and be shiny. Where the two bevels meet is the edge. It doesn't have to be "thin" but it should terminate in an edge so sharp that it won't reflect light. Light is reflected from flat or near-flat surfaces, not sharp ones. If you turn the razor edge up toward the light, and you see reflections, then either the edge needs work or the bevel is incomplete (that is, the bevels do not meet in a sharp edge). I think you were confusing edges with bevels. The bevel sides are what you create by honing. The edge is where both bevel sides meet. Ultimately, the edge is what you shave with. It has to be sharp. Whether the bevel sides are shiny is merely a matter of aesthetics, not efficiency.

After that last post I am now getting the impression of a spine worn older Sheffield with big thick bevels that you are trying to grind the bevels and the spine all at the same time and you are getting nowhere ????


I should have asked what we were working on first

Dear Fellow Members-Got nowhere last night, as I had to replane the 8K of the Norton. Will be working on her again tonight. The razor is a very nice older German razor, with about a 2mm blade face on either side. The bevel does not reflect light and does not have any flat spots-it's just not as sharp as it could be, as shaving requires 2-3 passes. The spine is uniformly flattened due to age, but I thought that this wears uniformly with the bevel and is not an issue. Do I need to use tape?-Gearhead

Pics ????

Would really be good at this point in time... I have a feeling I might have been giving the wrong advice..

Edge and Geometry assessment is a large factor in what direction to go and what techniques and tools will be needed, from your first post I assumed that we were dealling with an edge that was simply a tiny bit dull which might have been wrong on my part...

This quote

Originally Posted by gearhead222

Really perplexed at this point, as I have several straight razors that I think could be sharper. ANY feedback appeciated, as I have all of the right equipment, but feel like I'm digressing and not progressing!-Gearhead.

And some of the newer remarks have me thinking that things are perhaps not what I thought at first