Thread: Need to sharpen kitchen knives

Thanks for the replies.

I watched the videos at Youtube: Chefknivestogo. It gives me a better idea of technique. He finishes with a 6000K stone. That seems sharp.

I'm also reading the article: 'Knife Maintenance and Sharpening - eG Forums'

The knives I have are Edelstahl stainless steel. The bolster goes to the edge and a little beyond. It is fairly thick. Is this a problem with sharpening?

Does someone know of a good place to buy hones. I will probably use a 1k at least and maybe some higher ones if I start sharpening razors.

Binder,

Before I became a teacher, I spent a long time as a Chef. Not the fake, I work at The Keg chef, but the real "I've been trained, broken and molded" deal.

The magic marker test is great for starting out. Make your line a bit thicker, so you can definately see if you're dropping or raising your angle as you sharpen. As you may know, unlike razors, the knife spine is off of the stone.

The factory setting on most kitchen knives is between 15 and 20 degrees. As has been mentioned, use a protractor on a recipe card or piece of cardboard, cut out at 20 degree angle, and place your knife against it and the stone to see where you should be.

There are many ways to do this, but I always preferred to use long and fluid strokes, from the toe to the bolster. I never felt comfortable with segmenting the blade and doing "back and forth" strokes, or circles. Not that they don't work, they just were not comfortable for me.

I use a 220 to take out any dings from animal bones or whatever. A 1k to a TNT, then a 4k to a TPT. I finish on an 8K. All of my kitchen stones are Norton waterstones. Lap them before you start, and after you're finished. Long and fluid strokes. When I'm all done with the stones, I go to a Diamond steel, for 5 or 6 strokes, and finish on a Dickoron saphire butcher's steel for 20 to 25 laps.

Many of my old colleagues would sharpen differently. There are many ways to get to the same point. Just wanted to share what works for me....I remember being an apprentice in some kitchens, and feeling embarrased about not being able to keep my knives where I wanted them.

Good luck.

Maxi

**Don't want to offend anyone. Please don't take offence to The Keg comment. I like their steak, and they make a good product in their market.**

For me it depends what kind of kitchen knife to work with. With very dull edges i start from about 600 grit nameless Japanese stone and go on higher. With bread knives i stop after 3000 and for the rest i go up to 6000. I finish every knife with leather wheel (sort of a strop). I do not have oil stones. I use same low and medium grit stones with razors as i use with my other knives.
When sharpening kitchen knives (and work knives as well), keeping the honing angle constant is a key to success. And just like with razors, practice, time and patience helps getting better. Once the knife cuts easily you know you're done.

Arkansas stones are excellent for sharpening knives. I use a 20 degree angle, give or take...and usually finish on a BBW...They will pass the HHT... Ardennes actually has a BBW and a Carbo stone glued to a small paddle..I keep one in my kitchen and use the BBW side for refreshing them...It works great....

Maxi's post is a good one to reread.

A steel can be used in two ways, If you have never used on
let it hang down vertically and let it touch a cutting board
then draw the knife down toward the cutting board never
placing your hand in danger. Do remember the angle you
used to hone it, hold your angle template up as a reminder.

And yes you can use a steel the way a butcher does. It
helps to have someone to show you.

I like my extra fine diamond steel now that I have learned to
use it less often. It does not replace a regular steel but does
tidy the edge up nicely.

So here is the question. I bought a set of stones so I can someday sharpen my straight razors. Can I hone and stop my kitchen knives with the kit I bought for straights?

Example 220/1k, 4k/8k, flattening stone/prep stone, and a leather strop? Or do I need to also get a steel for kitchen knifes?

Originally Posted by Shoki

So here is the question. I bought a set of stones so I can someday sharpen my straight razors. Can I hone and stop my kitchen knives with the kit I bought for straights?

Example 220/1k, 4k/8k, flattening stone/prep stone, and a leather strop? Or do I need to also get a steel for kitchen knifes?

You are good to go with one possible exception.

You have all that you need to sharpen razors and kitchen knives.
You will want this and that but as far as need you are good to go.

Oh yes, the possible exception is a cutting board which BTW will profit from
applications of mineral oil. The same mineral oil many of us use to
keep corrosion at a minimum on our razors. A worthy cutting board
is as important for keeping a kitchen knife sharp as hones and a steel is.

Originally Posted by Maxi

Binder,

There are many ways to do this, but I always preferred to use long and fluid strokes, from the toe to the bolster. I never felt comfortable with segmenting the blade and doing "back and forth" strokes, or circles. Not that they don't work, they just were not comfortable for me.

How do you keep the same angle from the toe to bolster. It seems hard because of the end of the blade being curved?

Thanks

Originally Posted by binder

How do you keep the same angle from the toe to bolster. It seems hard because of the end of the blade being curved?

Thanks

If the long fluid strokes are repeatable the angle will take care of itself.
The toe can have a different angle... sharpness depends on
a consistent hone stroke as much or more than anything.

Review the above post that mentions using a magic marker on
the cutting edge to keep track of how the knife and hone
interact....

I'll try to address two things here.

First, Shoki:

A strop is to a razor, as a steel is to a knife.

Each time you SHARPEN your knife, you use your touch up stones or sharpening stones, much like your razors.

In between sharpenings, the knife's "teeth" become crooked. The steel is what straightens the teeth, just as a strop realigns the teeth on a razor.

Every time you use a knife, it should be run for a couple laps on a steel.

A Diamond Steel in the kitchen world, is basically the same concept as a strop with CrOX on it. It is used for quick touch ups when you don't need a full sharpen.

Again, like razors, you can spend obscene amounts of money on knives and keeping them sharp. Basic necessities; 1 and 4k stones, and a steel.

Binder:

The knife is long, and the stone is short and narrow in comparison. If you have a friend or partner who will lend you an extra set of hands, try this.

Have them hold your 20 degree cardboard guide on the stone. Place the tip of your knife on the top of the cardboard, and proceed to make an ultra slow stroke for the full length of the blade, ensuring that the blade touches the cardboard, and the cardboard touches the stone. This will allow you to concentrate on where your elbows are, how your shoulders feel, and what your wrists look like. When you are learning to sharpen, just as learning to strop, its best to make note of whats happening, and where, and when. It makes things easier down the road.

Your elbow and wrist angles will change as you push the knife in a sweeping curve across the stone. It's almost like doing some form of Tai Chi movement.

I hope this was able to help both of you.

Maxi