Thread: Axes!

Exactly, from the crack back is short grain. Every time the axe bites wood, the back of the eye bites into the back of the handle where the crack is, the shortest grain and will eventually break off and the crack may run in towards the middle of the handle.

This can be avoided and almost get the same/ similar curve to the handle by moving the curve forward and making the shoulder straighter as in the first two shoulders in the photo. The top one has more of a pointed shoulder, the second one from the top has a much straighter/ stronger shoulder. You can also hang the head higher, so it bottoms out higher on the shoulder.

Originally Posted by Mcbladescar

Not sure if Euclid440 is referring to the shoulder at the rear or not but in setting the head on this one, I cracked the rear shoulder.
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In the axe shown here the grain is at about a 45' angle to the head and there I can see it being "shorter".

In Harry's axe the grain is what I would call verticle and I cannot see where the peak is weaker.

You could put the peak slightly back from the head and it would be decorative but have no influence on a crack that I can see.

Originally Posted by HARRYWALLY

Thought I'd try doing a hand made handle for this old HB hatchet head I had. I had an old white oak stair stringer I salvaged from my old church when our company did some renovations on the front stage a few years ago. The treads, and stringers were all old clear boards and would have been thrown away. Most likely around 100 years old, so it's fair to say it's been well seasoned.

Used my old PS&W Co. drawknife, vintage Stanley spokeshave, and a vintage low angle spokeshave as well. Also used a 4 in hand rasp around the knob. Used the 2 spoke shaves to fit the head and wedged it with a piece of scrap Wenge wood I had. I rubbed in about 4-5 coats of BLO and will probably do more. Now I just need to make a leather mask and it's done. Another fun project, and am dying to do another. Really enjoyed this.

Forgot to say, I put another stupid edge on this one too. Nothing but oil stones and a bastard file to set the bevel. File, Lansky puck, 400/1000 grit pocket stone, finished with a barbers hone. Sharp enough to open up anyone not careful.

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Very nice workmanship

Always a fun time with my 4 nephews

A wicked ...long lasting edge on this one...Been 3 camping seasons..yet to sharpen it

Originally Posted by nessmuck

A wicked ...long lasting edge on this one...Been 3 camping seasons..yet to sharpen it

Beautiful camping axe. They make some of the best.

I also see you like traditional fire starting. Nice.

The other thing that can cause a failure is improper fit of the wedge to the kerf and eye, quite common. The wedge taper must match the eye and fill all the empty space, (the kerf and any space between the top of the handle and sides of the eye).

Measure the eye width and length, from the bottom and the top. The handle and the wedge, must match the measurements with the wedge installed out of the eye plus a little extra to compress the wood enough to fill the eye tightly at the base of the eye and middle and slightly mushroom the top of the head.

Any empty space or gap is an area ripe for failure. As are crushed wood fibers from forcing an improperly fitted/tapered or too large wedge to the kerf.

It takes just a few minutes to take some measurements from the eye and the handle with the wedge installed and fit the handle and wedge to the eye.

I restore and sell old tools, and buy a lot of hammers, hatchets, and axes. Most of what I buy are broken handle, discarded tools. The cause of failure is often an improperly fitted wedge.