Thread: razor oil questions

Originally Posted by joshb1000

I really appreciate the tip. Do you notice the smell stays with the razor? Its not a bad smell but doesnt go well with lather. I'm not too worried about rust but every little bit helps so thank you for all your support.

I just went and smelled my razors.

I hadn't even given it a thought until you brought it up. they have a slight odor but I am not soaking my daily ones just a light wipe with an oily cloth. I very seldom use anything scented to think about conflicting with it. I like the rule at my work against wearing any sort of perfume.

Tim

I live in Florida, the humidity capitol of the world...(and lightning...)
For razors that I have in storage, I use Camelia oil, it works well.
For razors out in rotation, I wipe them down, once dried, with a Silicone treated cloth. The kind you would use on guns, etc...

Personally, I was recomended Camelia oil for my blade, since its a carbon steel Boker. You can order it from many shaving suppliers, depending on where you live. I ordered mine from Shaving Style - Japanese Camellia Oil
But didnt get a chance to use it, getting ready for my first shave this Saturday.

So I have some camellia oil now, and I applied it to all my out-of-use blades last night. Placed a drop on each side of the blade and rubbed it around with a fingertip. Also treated the tang & monkeytail.

Is there a better way to apply? I'm not certain I got complete coverage, as it appears that the oil "balled up" kind of like water droplets on a freshly waxed car in places....

I t sounds to me as if you have a very nice finish on your razor, I would just wipe the excess off.

FWIW --

I just saw a bunch of Japanese swords, made in 1200-1400. They were shiny bright.

The Japanese use "choji oil" on the blades. I think the closest modern equivalent is mineral oil with some oil of cloves added. And I think you can still buy "choji oil".

I use Corrosion-Block myself. But anything that keeps air and water off the blade will work -- Mobil 1 engine oil, mineral oil, baby oil, CLP, whatever.

If you're using the razor regularly, you'll be renewing the protection often, so it doesn't much matter what you put on the blade. If you search previous threads, you'll find lots of opinions, and very little data. People find something that works, and keep using it.

Charles

PS -- I don't have any razors with valuable scales; there may be special concerns with those.

As above,I have been told by collectors of fine japanese blades to use mineral oil.
Is said that the only reason an aromatic was added (such as clove oil) was to differentiate the oil used on blades, from the household cooking oil.

Originally Posted by Wortmanb

Is there a better way to apply? I'm not certain I got complete coverage, as it appears that the oil "balled up" kind of like water droplets on a freshly waxed car in places....

Don't worry that is just excess oil. You could remove that with a tissue & still have complete coverage. An adequate coat of oil is almost invisible.

Usually, oil just spreads out when you put it onto clean steel.

I wonder why it balled up . . . Could the blade be coated with something? Have you tried cleaning it with alcohol, and then oiling?

Charles

Originally Posted by cpcohen1945

Usually, oil just spreads out when you put it onto clean steel.

I wonder why it balled up . . . Could the blade be coated with something? Have you tried cleaning it with alcohol, and then oiling?

Charles

On highly polished steel surface,lack of surface tension will cause oil to bead.