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Thread: Photographing Razors
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07-10-2010, 02:12 AM #1
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Thanked: 603My DIY Light-Box
Parts List
One 14"x14"x14" UPS shipping carton
Three sheets of 14"x17" tracing paper
2" duct tape
One utility knife
Two goose-neck table lamps w/26W fluorescent bulbs
I found the instructions here.
It took all of an hour to construct. I cut a 1/4" slit across the upper back of the box, through which I pull whichever background I've chosen for that day's SOTD photo (most of my backgrounds are pillowcases, from Target; some are camouflage cloth, purchased from the Barre Army-Navy Store).
You can have everything, and still not have enough.
I'd give it all up, for just a little more.
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07-10-2010, 03:20 AM #2
HNSB, do you have a flash for your DSLR? If you do, all you need to do is to back yourself up against a wall and aim that flash behind you. It'll bounce off the walls of the room and illuminate the shot evenly. Personally, I think f-1.7 is was too small for that shot. I try to go for as close to f-3+ to minimize artifacting. Here's one shot this way...
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07-10-2010, 03:39 AM #3
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Thanked: 1371
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07-10-2010, 03:42 AM #4
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Thanked: 1371Well, I've been experimenting a little more. I took some dark green spray paint to my flowers and styrofoam to darken the background a bit.
I also played with different aperture settings to see how they turned out. It seems, that for my setup, f4 puts the razor in good focus and still gives the background a heavy blur.
Here is my most recent attempt with a Joseph Mappin 8/8 wedge:
Strange women lying in ponds distributing swords is no basis for a system of government.
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07-10-2010, 04:11 AM #5
I take a simple approach to my knife and razor photography. Just natural daylight (window light) and a chunk of wood as a background. It's not perfectly consistent, and the light intensity is low, but it's easy and looks good.
The biggest issue with this method is getting enough light on the sensor. The only solution to this is long exposures with a tripod. My exposures are usually about 2 seconds long.
The uniformity of a light box can actually be a hindrance in some situations. The light is (intentionally) flat, and can obscure details like chatoyancy. Window light has its own problems too. It is mostly from one direction, so shadows can be somewhat pronounced. This problem can be easily solved using white reflector cards strategically placed around the subject. By having only one primary light source and one (or two) secondary sources, you can custom tailor the light to accentuate the subject. Simply moving the reflectors around will illuminate shadows, control reflections, and accentuate chatoyancy.
Phillip
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07-10-2010, 08:53 PM #6
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07-10-2010, 10:39 PM #7
I think a less busy background shows off the razor , JMHO
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07-10-2010, 11:27 PM #8
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Thanked: 1371
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07-14-2010, 07:54 AM #9
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- Aug 2009
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- Pasadena, CA
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Thanked: 3nice and very informative i know where to look once i get a good camera.
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02-15-2011, 01:31 PM #10
I found using a light box to be too restrictive. Instead I use two swing arm lamps clamped on either side of a table. In these I put GE helical 20w bulbs that are full spectrum, or daylight rated, with a color temperature between 5,000k and 6,000k (bought at Walmart). This equates to natural light and gives a more even color balance. Over the reflectors of these lamps is taped a single sheet of tracing paper to act as a diffuser. (You could also use a translucent white plastic bag that comes from your grocer.) To give variety to the background I use 9" x 12" felt sheets sold at my local crafts store for less than a buck and come in a rainbow of colors. This is a very flexible setup that allows for a wide variety of camera angles and lighting options.
Regards - Walt
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The Following User Says Thank You to Walt For This Useful Post:
HNSB (02-15-2011)