LocTite Blue my friend!
Printable View
Reading down read Eds post & I was thinking loctite will stop that
But kept ready first luckily
A definate +1 on the loctite
Those Ebony scales go perfectly. Great job
Anxiously awaiting for a response from Bruno, I am dying to place an order .
Hey everyone, I have this Bruno blade that I purchased from another shaving forum:
Attachment 176129
And I love it, but I don't think the scales do it justice. I'd like to do something a little more fitting with Bruno's Alien design, but I'm having some trouble sourcing the materials I'm looking for. Does anyone know where I can find some black MOP acrylic, preferably kirinite?
Black MOP on Masecraft but don't think it is Kirinite
nice looking blade some long slender scales would suit the tail
edit try here
http://www.masecraftsupply.com/servl...Lip-Mop/Detail
I buy all my kirinite on usaknifemaker.com
The site is very easy to use and the people there are helpful and friendly.
Where are the Bruno blades sold?
Contact Bruno in the post #132 just above yours
This the best way and discuss your wishes
Or for a complete blade try the Smail forge blades on SRD's custom str8s area but be quick they are lucky to last a few hours when posted
Thanks Substance and Bruno. I've checked out usaknifaker.com already but they're out of stock of black MOP and haven't answered any emails.
So I went ahead and ordered this Kirinite since the black MOP was out of stock and masecraft required a minimum order of $50 when I only needed $20 with of acrylic. We'll see how it works!
http://usaknifemaker.com/media/catal...enom_pearl.jpg
And here's a first draft my sketch for the scales. I appreciated Substance's suggestion of long slender scales. Something that will show off all of Bruno's work on the jimps and curves. The pins are brass and I'm thinking of making the wedge out of the toxic green acrylic of the current scales. Keep in mind though that this is my first attempt at anything like this, so I'm happy to hear any constructive criticism you might have to improve the design!
Attachment 176532
I am not sure of the grind on your razor, but just make sure that the blade won't end up sticking out of the bottom of the scales, the position of the third pin might be important too as a stop to help with this.
It's 1/4 hollow. That's what the third pin in the sketch is for (ideally) there's a hollow behind the heel that I think the pin will sit nicely in.
That 3d pin (perhaps with a small acrylic spacer) will fall into the half-circle hole that's in the heel of the blade.
At least, I think that is the intended design?
@#136 You will need to be very precise with the positioning of the third pin to avoid the blade slipping through. Normally the third pin is used more as a means for creating a bow in the scaled rather than as a stop. It's the size of the wedge that dictates how far the blade settles into the scales but your design doesn't allow for that.
So I went home and sketched it out with the razor beside me and I think this one works better. Attachment 176586
Sorry, I have just thought that you will need to consider the location of the 3rd pin in relation to the tail to ensure you get a good range of movement on the scales, that pin is going to hit the tail somewhere by the looks. It might be worthwhile mocking it up with card first to see what happens. I did that when I was designing a razor and it helped me a lot with the shape, though I didn't do that with the scales I left them to someone else.
I was thinking the same thing. I keep trying to sketch something up that just covers the edge of the blade but it doesn't seem to look right, and I'm definitely going to have issues with that pin. Back to the drawing board. Thanks for the input.
Ulricus, it's an interesting shape for an interesting blade. I see what you're going for but I agree with the other post above. If you'd like to sketch an outline of the blade I'd be happy to give some sketches / thoughts that might help?
You're after something that suits the blade so the best thing will be to see and hold it, imagine the scales being folded up in use and for stropping, etc. Happy to help with the brainstorming process.
I'll do that. It's just a unique blade (as with most of Bruno's) so I'm trying to come up with a unique set of scales for it, but it seems like scales are generally shaped the way they are for a reason.
I really love Bruno's blades for this very reason. So much scope to make a set of unique scales that really suits them.
You may have seen these in a different thread, but here are my recent Bruno scales, in stained bone:
Attachment 176591
Attachment 176592
Attachment 176593
I wanted these to mirror the shape of the blade. Have some ideas how to show off the shape of yours.
The other thing to consider is the weight of these blades - a thin set of scales may feel light and fragile in comparison.
I did see those, they were actually my inspiration for trying to make a set of scales that flowed with the blade.
I think you will find the second pin is a decoration only
you may need to drop then third pin completely, my Spanish Monkey Bruno Blade couldn't have it due to the tail length as to clear the blade & still let the tail swing through
Substance is correct, my second rear pin is decorative only.
I'm away from home at the moment but here are a couple of early photos when I was testing the pivot pin using a microfastener (before I'd finished working on polishing the blade). It opens fully and right back as any usual straight razor would.
Attachment 176622
Attachment 176623
Attachment 176624
Here are a couple of very quick and rough ideas. Please excuse the very basic graphics - was just a quick way to start brainstorming with the blade shape in mind.
The first is an idea literally from the Aliens movie. I see the front tip of the scales as the alien head, and the rear as the tail. I can imagine a set in bone with an intricately carved face, or in steel with etching. (Maybe I'm getting a little ahead of myself!) The tail curve is too long, but I think it shows that curves can work with a blade this shape.
The second is much more geometrical, with parts mirroring basic geometric versions of the blade itself. I think the shape of the razor lends itself to scales that can come out past the front tip of the blade, but should stop pretty close to the pivot pin - otherwise it may get unwieldy.
The third was a quick attempt to do what I've done with my Bruno scales, which was to try to follow the shape of the blade in the scales - this version has the tail of the scales too thin, and the front too long, but should give you the idea. I'd make the tail a bit fatter and overall it would look like a squashed version of the blade itself. Not sure how this would work...
Attachment 176642
Anyway, hope that gets the ideas flowing. I recommend cardboard cutouts to get a feel for how the scales would move, before actually picking any design. Nothing wrong with cardboard and scissors to help shape/modify your designs! Good luck!
P.s. I didn't particularly like the 'Alien' design before, but having looked at it for a while, I have been converted.
When designing scales draw the blade in the closed position and then rotate it 180 degress to the fully open stropping and honing position. It's really important that the scales do not interfere when stropping, therefore the monkey tail should be contained within the scales when open and you should be able to hold the tang easily with thumb and finger. Any design that departs from this general principle will cause grief in the long run.:boohoo:
The comment earlier about scales being the way they are is very true.
No 4 above looks the most likely fit to me.
Thanks for the tip, I'll sketch it up like that before I cut out the cardboard so I can testnit out.
I'm going to end up making the scales out of Kirinite anyway since I've already got it in the mail, but I somehow think I'm going to start learning scrimshaw just to make bone scales for this razor.
Based on UKRob's suggestions and Suavio's first design, (which I love the lines of) I made these up. I think they'll keep with the alien lines of Bruno's original design, but also keep the scales functional. I'm also thinking of adding some jimps to the "tail" section to mirror the razor. How do they look?
Attachment 176755
Attachment 176756
Attachment 176757
the only thing I would say is watch the width of the scales at the pivot to fit between your fingers when shaving
doesn't seem like much but I find it feels a lot better when they are narrower
so maybe trim the bottom edge up a bit JMO
looks like fun either way
Thanks, I'll keep it in mind when I get the Kirinite and start shaping it. Thanks everyone for the help.
I agree with substance, nice to keep them narrow at the pivot. Looks like a fun project, look forward to seeing progress!
A couple of suggestions:
- In the closed position, I would try and follow the contour of the spine more - make it more of a swoop than the 'roller-coaster' shape.
- At the toe end, why not mirror the blade shape more instead of rounding the scales? That way there a little more symmetry when the blade is slightly open.
In practical terms the shape will not rest in the position you have shown - because the tail is long, it will make them back heavy and the tail will be down when you rest the scales with the blade in a closed position.
I had exactly that problem with the ones below - I ended up having to re-make them.
http://i1270.photobucket.com/albums/...ps587b49f2.jpg
One more design and I'll stop clogging up the thread until I get the Kirinite and start shaping it I promise.
Since the razor has the long tail with jimps and curves like the Alien's tail, I decided I'd try something that looked more like the alien's head. I tried to take some of your advice and kept the scales thinner at the pivot.
Attachment 176880
Attachment 176881
Attachment 176882
I understand what you're saying, and I realize that my current design will suffer from the same issue, but why does that make a difference?