Thread: Straights for Heavy Beards?

Originally Posted by debay

It's all about what works for you.

Granted,....however the original question was .....

what makes a razor more accommodating (specific characteristics) for Heavy Beards?

I didn't take a poll but most including myself agree a heavier wedge style is recognized as the go to razor for heavier beards.

[QUOTE=sharptonn;1527016]Lots who have an idea that everyone can shave with super-thin blades have no idea what it is like to have a tough beard.
How could they? They can not!
Back when everyone used straights in the early days, heavy grinds were all there was to use. Onward to late 1800's and 1900's as thinner grinds were introduced, heavys were still preferred my many. Even today, it still means it IS subjective.
Makers/Sellers recommended different grinds for different beards for a very long time as well.
You would think they knew what they were talking about back then, wouldn't you?

You're right Tom
Mastro Livi is one of them who determines what type of steel & grind he will use according to a mans beard!

So at the point when all the barbers eventually shifted to full hollows eg the Dubl Duck Spec #1, which was aimed at barbers tho not stamped FBU, they couldn't shave customers with heavy beards ?

I think many barbers preferred the Ducks, FWE's and such. Easy to maintain and use. I also think there was a razor or two for that Mediterranean descended Gent who came in from time to time.
I suppose I am considered a wierdo at times, but as mentoring someone, I have been known to ask if I may rub their beard.
This only happens as I see they seem to have very thick hairs which are heavily populated.
I thought I had a heavy beard. Some are really heavy and thick.
I go back to science class as a kid. Someone brought in a micrometer and we began a study measuring each other's head hair. It was amazing to learn that some folks have hair twice as thick as others!
So if they are trying to fly with a Top Flight 5/8, I steer them to something heavier.
Always successful!

........

Originally Posted by ChopperDave

........

See what I mean?

like some others here I date back to 60's and 70's. in those days I had a barber's shave a few times and they used 6/8 hollow grind. don't remember the brand of razor but remember the size. baack then they used razors to trim around the ears also. when is was in the service I would get barbers shave sometimes before I had to go in the main office and see the first shirt. Early 70's they some were using the razors with changeable blades. I had in those days a very heavy beard. I do like the heavier blades but when it comes down to it if the angle is right and the blade is sharp it really didn't matter.

So to some, It really does not matter!
I will say, with my particular beard, if I were going at a 4 day beard, I would choose a heavy.
If I shave again in a day or two, a thinner concave would be my choice.
FME, my beard is middle of the road as far as thickness goes. Problem comes in on the 3rd or 4th day as the hairs are multiplying rapidly. Again, some do not experience it. It happens!

Aside from the palcebo effect, the grind itself makes difference in two ways only

1) Heavier grinds tend to add more mass/inertia to the razor which generally helps to compensate for subpar shaving technique. A light blade will follow the motions from one's hand far more closely than a heavy blade.

2) Thin grinds result in lateral flexibility. Since the angle at which the hair is cut is never 90 degree there is some force perpendicular to the blade. When the blade flexes from this force the cutting angle becomes more oblique to the hair requiring more force. It's not a big effect as the flex is small but depending on the angle it could be noticeable. Good shaving technique responds appropriately to any such flex just like it does to the changes of the facial topography.


But, that's understanding what really happens; as far as what's written on the razor it's largely factoidal marketing. Probably as scientific as taking coarseness/heaviness of one's beard as indication for masculinity.

I have seen this labeling primarily on full hollow and extra full hollow razors with heavier spines and size 6/8, but not exclusively on them. It's probably something of a fad from a particular period in razor manufacturing.

Here's something for the curious collector - take a 'like new' Filarmonica 13 or 14 and compare the regular Doble Temple/Novodur with the EPBD, both the grind and the weight. They're made from the same blanks, presumably with the same heat treatment and differ primarily in grind and finish. There is some variation in the years, but a collector can compare the same sizes (not just the same number) from same periods.

I shall get right on that, Gugi. How does a preference of a heavier grind in a particular/permanent situation translate to (said) 'compensate for subpar shaving technique'? As old heavy grinds are most plentiful, history proves this evolution and effectiveness. I sorta think they knew how to shave, back then.
They never said "Only a Palmera Shall DO! NAH!
I think you have not understood a great number of us thick-bladed types!
I simply require no response.