Thread: Advice on a Tally Ho

Bug bites are acceptable to me if not too severe. The main thing I look for is cracks around the pivot pin and pitting near the edge of the blade. If the pitting is too deep when you go to honing you may end up with an edge resembling swiss cheese. If the scales were so bad that they needed to be replaced you would be doubling the cost unless you do scale replacement yourself. Even then there is the labor.

Well the scales don't look cracked, just a few bites around the middle. And that pitting is very light so...
I'm still waiting on the Jo Rogers

Originally Posted by khaos

Here are some more pics. The scales are worm chewed. Is this an issue? Also, how does the bevel look? The bevel itself doesn't look pitted, nor does the stel around it, but it is black. Will this be an issue?

The type of corrosion this razor has is almost like a cancer. You can polish out the blade but the corrosion will come back because it is deep into the pores of the metal. You see this more on the old Sheffield razors ground from steel that has been cast rather than forged. What you need to do is use a rust converter - available at Wal Mart in the automotive section for a minimal amount - and after you shake it up, use a QTip to paint the entire blade. Let it sit for just a few minutes and wash it off well with hot soapy water and dry it. At this point you can either oil it up an work on it later or start the polishing procedure. The whole blade will need to be polished out - but the corrosion will not return at least for quite a while. The rust converter penetrates down into the metals pores and "burns" the rust into a polymer and stops the process. The blade will be blackish gray everywhere and not attractive at all until it is polished out - then you are good to go.

When you find these old Friedrick Finny Tally Ho blades NEVER buy one. Always tell me where it is and I will rescue you from temptation.

But is it "bad" corrosion? Like, I know it will be unsightly, but will it impact honing?

mmm.. The blade looks to me in great condition, and scales too are in great shape. I wouldn't use a converter. I suppose that no converters have been used in her first 150 years of life and we can see the results: a good surface with some patina and very light superficial oxidation, with some pitting near the spine. Some MAAS, and some oil for the finish, should be enough to start using her for the next 150 years.

..well this is just my approach.

Originally Posted by khaos

But is it "bad" corrosion? Like, I know it will be unsightly, but will it impact honing?

You have to look at it with magnification. If it is pitted in the bevel or slightly above the only thing that you can do is start setting the bevel and see if you can get through to clean steel. If the pits are too deep as you get into them they will become holes or chips in the bevel.

The phenomenon John was referring to (I think) is when the rust sort of tunnels through the steel. IOW, it can be visable as a pit but that is only the tip of the iceberg. That is a worst case scenario and not all cases will be that bad IME.

I'm tossing up buiyng it and leaving it as is, Or buying it and rescaling it in some kind of nice blonde colour scales, but now we're stepping far into RAD territory. Just ignore that. NVM. Why did I say that? Anyway. As long as the blade is good and the scales work even if it's just for now, nice.

I'm thinking it will look good as a 150 year old workable shaver, untouched, or as a fully resto-d thing in blonde horn (because this matches my brush and would display VERY well).
Which I guess is what makes it more appealing, I can use it till I can afford to pimp it.

Different strokes for different folks. Me I like to leave an old horn Sheffield razor like that original. If the scales are too far gone I wait until I find one in better condition. Just my personal preference.

I'm completely agree. I also use this principle.