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Thread: Slots in a Paddle Strop

  1. #21
    Senior Member dinnermint's Avatar
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    Over the last year or so, I've increased the pressure I use to strop. Mainly when I first lay the razor on my linen and leather. I do lighten up some as I go. No real reason, it just happens. I started and stayed at feather light for years and one day got frustrated with a wedge, stropped the bejesus out of it with heavier pressure and boom, awesome shave. Super thin grinds are a different story, but I only have a couple of those.

    But, that's just me. If you have success with that light of stropping maybe a durable foam pad under the stropping materials is all you need. I still suggest foam or somesuch, just to compensate for inconsistent thickness in leather. On the other hand, my father still uses that dang stiff paddle and it works for him, as well as others.

    Maybe it's just not my cup of tea...
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  2. #22
    " Atta Boy!!" sharptonn's Avatar
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    I use a Lipshaw strop a lot. They have foam rubber under on the later ones and a 'Jute' like stuff on the older ones.
    A bit of cushion is nice.

    Am thinking we are headed toward a discussion on how to draw the razor back on what.

    Those who strop on a hard paddle will need to follow the edge, much as in honing.

    More cushy, more pushy. I always say...Easier
    Last edited by sharptonn; 01-05-2019 at 04:48 AM.

  3. #23
    Senior Member Tony Miller's Avatar
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    I feel much of this has to do with just what you intend to use a paddle strop for. I would agree that for plain leather, every shave stropping a bit of flex or "cushion" may be desirable. Most of the slotted paddles I see however are so stiff no amount of normal pressure is going to flex them and to me the slots are just added hype and expense. Light padding underneath, a loom type strop with variable tension, or simply thicker, softer leather may give the desired give.

    Now, if I am using my strop as a hone, pasted or sprayed with an abrasive, I myself want the most hard and rigid surface I can get to avoid any chance of rounding my edge. A little flex or give on an abrasive surface, in my thinking can quickly impart a bit of rounding to my edge effectively reducing sharpness. For a pasted paddle I want a flat, hard surface. Thick stable hardwood supporting a firm leather, thick or thin, as long as it is hard would do nicely. I also like balsa or basswood. yes, balsa is soft but under normal stropping pressure it is not going to give. Layer it on a stable wood substrate to keep it flat. I have used dense MDF, with a sanded surface to provide a tooth for the abrasive to stick to as a base for pastes on knives and razors with good results.

    Just my thoughts
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  4. #24
    " Atta Boy!!" sharptonn's Avatar
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    I use suspended balsa for my CroOx and FeOx. It does deflect a bit, but not much if you tighten the thumbscrews.
    Loosen them all for heavy wedges!

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  5. #25
    Senior Member ppetresen's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by sharptonn View Post
    I use suspended balsa for my CroOx and FeOx. It does deflect a bit, but not much if you tighten the thumbscrews.
    Loosen them all for heavy wedges!

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    Boy there is a lot going on in this picture. In my head those cleavers come off the stones and are used to give the most amazing BBS shave.
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