Thread: Slots in a Paddle Strop

In preparation for making my own I've been looking at a few paddle strops and a fair number of them have slots, generally two, cut into the sides which supposedly give it some flex and make it feel a bit more like a hanging strop. Does it really make much of a difference? I see enough with the slots, both vintage and new, which makes me think there must be something to it, but on it's own I guess I find it difficult to believe those slots would be all that noticeable. Anyone with some experience or thoughts on this?

Having some 'give' to the strop is desirable, IMO.
Air-space or padding is a good thing on a paddle strop.
Exactly like not pulling a hanging strop too taut. We need to hit the very edge.

There have been some modern ones that I have seen that left me wondering if it would have any flex at all. I think the flex needs to be soft.

This is good to know. I have the remnants of a Tony Miller synthetic strop, from which I can get about 12 inches of usable area, thus the plan to make a paddle strop out of it. I think I should be able to cut the slots with a table saw. Nothing to lose at this point, aside from nice oak if I really mess it up.

The solid-backed ones need a touch of 'torque' as stropping. Not something a newer shaver (or anyone else!) should need to learn.
A piece of something on a piece of wood does not a strop for razors make...

I have seen these slots you speak of. Seems like they would provide little effect. I would like to experience one.
Just get some give under the strop.

I use a paddle strop and a bench strop I made quite often. In order to give it some "give" I put a piece of mouse pad material under the leather. It seems to work for me.

Oak is a strong wood. If you want your strop to bend why not make the whole strop thinner?

I have one of those slotted strops and a home made leather on board bench strop. I really do not feel the difference when stopping with them.

I do think a 3” paddle strop is a good thing for a newbie to learn proper stropping technique and develop the appropriate muscle memory before ripping a good hanging strop to shreds.

Originally Posted by nipper

I use a paddle strop and a bench strop I made quite often. In order to give it some "give" I put a piece of mouse pad material under the leather. It seems to work for me.

Sounds to me like this would be a lot more effective than putting slots in the wood base.

Originally Posted by nipper

I use a paddle strop and a bench strop I made quite often. In order to give it some "give" I put a piece of mouse pad material under the leather. It seems to work for me.

Really interesting idea. I had thought about trying to put some foam or something between the leather and the wood but had not considered a mouse pad. I just might experiment with that, thanks!

Originally Posted by 32t

Oak is a strong wood. If you want your strop to bend why not make the whole strop thinner?

I think the only downsides to a piece of oak thin enough to have some bend is simply the lack of handle and that it maybe is more susceptible to breaking. I was also considering some nice hand cut birch but obviously that isn't nearly as strong as oak.