Thread: Pasted Strops "The Experiment"

Some answers, here since you guys resurrected this thread...

The razor showed no rounding though a 40x loupe before I tried the pics, which DID NOT turn out, yes yes I know my pics rarely do..
It is actually fairly easy to spot a secondary bevel too...

As to conclusions, now that is a bit harder, I would much rather you just try it yourself and see how far you get...

The basis of this experiment was to look at two statements that get used on many of the forums quite a bit...

1. Too much pasted strop use rounds the bevel.
2. Too much pasted strop use creates a overhoned harsh edge.

To my brain and experience, these both, could not be correct, one or the other, or as I found neither, but I just could not see both...

So how long can you go???? I have no idea...

Would it go longer if I had waited between stropping, or was I actually prolonging the life with a maintenance schedule??? I don't know..

These were not the goals of my testing, they were just a byproduct...

Good luck on your own tests

I will weigh in with my experience using my paddle strop with three sides pasted.

With over 50 uses, all razors still performed well. At 70 uses, the razor with the softest metal needed a stone rehoning. The others are still rolling along and shaving well and taking an edge well. Timewise, the razors have been in use for 18+ months just using the pasted paddle strop to stay in shape. I rely on my thumbpad to tell me when the razors need a visit to the pasted strop.

I had to repaste my paddle strop - .50 cromox side with another thin pasting along with my 1.0 cromox side a few months ago.

Its working for me. No photos, just good result to report.

Pabster

Originally Posted by Pabster

I had to repaste my paddle strop - .50 cromox side with another thin pasting along with my 1.0 cromox side a few months ago.

For the pastes-only route, is it necessary to drop down to the 1.0, or can you get away with just the regular .5?

Just asking out of curiosity, as I have little intentions of starting an experiment of this scope. Plus I like my hones

The .50 gets most of the work as an edge touch upper. Occassionally, if after the .50 and leather stropping doesn't get the edge I am seeking, then I move up the 1.0 ChromOx. I will only use the pasted strop when the leather strop isn't getting the edge I am seeking after 70 - 100 passes. Usually 10 passes on the .50 and then the leather strop passes gets the edge back to shape.

Rarely, did I use the 3.0 ChromOx and that was mostly for my Stainless Steel Blades. The 1.0 diamond spray was better for the Stainless Steel Blades, but the .50 Chromox was always a good paste "finisher" for Carbon Steel and SS before the final stroping on the leather.

I am thinking that a good barber hone combined with a pasted paddle strop can keep a good edge going for years. But only time will tell.

Pabster

1 and 3 micron chromox? Where did you get something like that? Until now I was told that all chromox is about 0,3-0,5 micron fine.

Thanks Pabster. I use finishing hones for touchups when the .5 chrome ox stops doing its thing, so I have no experience with coarser pastes. Good to know.

Stropping is an unusual exercise. You want the grain (abrasive) to become finer as you polish your beveled edge. There are many abrasives that can serve this purpose. I have found that it is best for my blade, to have one that not only removes micro irregularities from the blades edge, but also pulls the incipient molecular buildup of oxidation from the blade's bevel.

My daily routine begins with my last shave. I rinse my blade and use SRD's black latigo. The web is virgin. The latigo has a Dovo black paste applied to it.

On my next use of the blade it is stropped using SRD's #1. The webbing has yellowstone compound applied to the inner side of the webbing. Fun stuff. I use the yellowstone compound as a final finisher before my shave. No more than 6-10 passes, and strop the leather 20-30 passes. More often than not I use the l rear of the web to strop. The build up of the compound on the rear of the strop actually polishes the blade in a very efficient way without the worries of excessive wear.

Every 10- 12 months I will take the blades to the Norton 8k. I use the 8k dry. That is all that I have needed to enjoy wonderful shaves for the last many years.

Originally Posted by Bladerunner

Stropping is an unusual exercise. You want the grain (abrasive) to become finer as you polish your beveled edge. There are many abrasives that can serve this purpose. I have found that it is best for my blade, to have one that not only removes micro irregularities from the blades edge, but also pulls the incipient molecular buildup of oxidation from the blade's bevel.

My daily routine begins with my last shave. I rinse my blade and use SRD's black latigo. The web is virgin. The latigo has a Dovo black paste applied to it.

On my next use of the blade it is stropped using SRD's #1. The webbing has yellowstone compound applied to the inner side of the webbing. Fun stuff. I use the yellowstone compound as a final finisher before my shave. No more than 6-10 passes, and strop the leather 20-30 passes. More often than not I use the l rear of the web to strop. The build up of the compound on the rear of the strop actually polishes the blade in a very efficient way without the worries of excessive wear.

Every 10- 12 months I will take the blades to the Norton 8k. I use the 8k dry. That is all that I have needed to enjoy wonderful shaves for the last many years.

Here is the best example that many ways lead to a sharp razor, and a comfortable shave. Very unique methods!