Thread: Kanayama Cordovan Strop 90000

Originally Posted by JOB15

I've spent some hours this weekend trying to learn my new Nakayama Karasu and I've noticed some thing disturbing.
After hitting the Shapton 16k I have been hitting (not literally) my blade on the Jnat then on the strop and repeating a few times , Jnat,strop,Jnat,strop.
All the time checking under the microscope .
I'm looking to achieve an extremely thin unbroken line of light along the edge and I've found that after doing 50 strokes on the linen that that line becomes broken up.
So I tested different methods .
Coming off the leather the edge is perfect and even improved with a perfect thin beam of light along the edge.
My linen is quite stiff and coarse,, its on a Classic Shaving Bridle leather 3" strop.
I think my days of using linen are over. Even though I was gonna soften up the linen on my yet to arrive Kanayama.
I did read a long time ago some thing along the lines of not using linen after a Jnat finisher.

2 things to consider.
If the linen is not broken in, being a stiff coarse style & the razor edge has been taken to an overly fragile condition you will degrade the edge.
Leather will not but you will have to touch up the razor sooner as just shaving will also degrade such a delicate edge.

Of course heavy handed stropping may be a culprit also but that is only a guess & a suggestion.

I strop all the time on my broken in Kanayama linen with no adverse effects regardless of what stone I finish on.

Yep, I'm very happy with the linen component on my #80000, and use it every time!

Originally Posted by onimaru55

2 things to consider.
If the linen is not broken in, being a stiff coarse style & the razor edge has been taken to an overly fragile condition you will degrade the edge.
Leather will not but you will have to touch up the razor sooner as just shaving will also degrade such a delicate edge.

Of course heavy handed stropping may be a culprit also but that is only a guess & a suggestion.

I strop all the time on my broken in Kanayama linen with no adverse effects regardless of what stone I finish on.

Hi thanks for answering me, maybe I can get some advise from you..
I think the edge was fragile and I know how such a thing came to pass
I set the bevel on the 1k/5k and it was sticky sharp.
Then did some strokes on the 8k .
At this point the edge and whole bevel was perfect under the scope .
Then I took it to the 16k for 10 laps each way no pressure.
After this I checked under the scope and there was clearly a section where the 16k had not reached the edge of the blade. It was kinda fuzzy.
So I went on to do a load more stokes adding pressure from my finger and so on.
Eventually I did some X strokes , the kind where you swish the blade across the stone making like a curvy X .
This worked and the fuzzy section was now in line with the rest of the bevel.
However all those extra strokes probably gave me a bit of a wire edge.
My question is whats the deal with the not getting to the edge on the 16k?
I use my Atoma 1200 on my Shaptons after every honing session so im sure the stone is flat.
Many thanks...