Thread: How to Make a Good Strop?

Originally Posted by Hirlau

Welcome aboard,,, first I'd like to thank you for your direct, let's get to the point, first post. You managed to asked "8" questions in a single, condescending post. Nothing like walking past the front desk & heading straight for the continental breakfast; would you like a To-Go box with that?

Most, if not all of your questions, can be answered by reading threads posted in our stropping section & using our "Advanced" search button, above right, top of the page. Be cautious though, there are a lot of "opinionated replies" from members who make a living from producing strops & working with leather of all types,,, some of these members are literally, world famous for their craftsmanship. ,,,, and that's not just my opinion

Your post asks for a lot of specific information that members here are more than willing to give you, that's the way we are.
Then, as goodwill starts to fall upon you, with the responses of your fellow members, ,,,,you slam the door in their face with your last 2 paragraphs:

"An answer to any of these questions is greatly appreciated. Keep in mind that the intention is to make a working strop, not a piece of perfection. I am aiming for a B- in quality, not an A+, so please avoid opinions against less than perfect materials.

For the price of a commercially sold strop and half a day of my time, I can make a working strop and have quality leather, polishing compound, and other materials left over for future projects. Clearly that's the best option in my opinion. "

I apologize if my post here comes across as anything more than inquisitive. Information found via such searches is truly patchy. For example, while most insist that veg tanned leather is good, some insist that only horse hide or latigo is high quality.

Who is one to believe, and how is one to determine if veg tanned cow hide is going to make a quality strop while some insist that it's inferior?

Furthermore, my last two paragraphs were meant to reinforce my original intentions which were to make a practical strop, not a masterpiece. I didn't mean to shut down any opinions except for those which insist that less than the best is trash. This is an opinion I have found to be all too impeding for the DIYer.

To clarify, even this response is by no means an attempt to invalidate your opinions. Your knowledge is welcome and wanted, but I want you to understand that my purpose here was to collect scattered information into a comprehensive Q&A of sorts, something more easily digested.

Well I don't know a ton about strops, but I think quite a lot of it is personal preference; assuming you are using smooth natural leather. I have made a few strops and recently refurbished some... I learned a lot. Right now I'm waiting to order leather for my monster DIY loom strop and hope to write up a tutorial with pics once finished. Why? Because I couldn't find a loom DIY plan.

Well,,,,,,,,,, I like DIYers ,,, they bring ideas to the table & often open doors that lead to new products on the market.

An opinion is not a bad thing,, it's an expressed thought, based on a person's life experience.
Some have more hands on experience on a particular subject than others, leading to an educated opinion.
I think it's up to each of us to to evaluate the source.
"Who does one believe? How does one determine?" you ask,,,,, easy,,, try them both,,,,, try them all if you can,,,,
You make a decision on which strop suits you & then give us your opinion why. It will be welcome here.

Any decent leather, in reasonable condition, will do.

James.

I can always appreciate a DIYer! I, too, try to do things myself so I can see where you're coming from. I don't know too much about making strops, but I can tell you if it's thicker you'll be able to sand it down a bit and recondition it if it gets knicked up.
Regarding the hopes to avoid the lesser than masterpiece response, you'll notice this forum is packed with gentleman that love to help and offer expertise. Each And every one of us have started at the same place and gained a working knowledge of the art, so we all know what it's like to ask the questions. We're all cheering you on as you make your strop, bud. Please let us know how you make out.
Lastly, you will see get togethers mentioned on the forum. I highly recommend attending one of them if possible. This way you can try out different strops and types of leather to see what works best for you. Best of luck and welcome to SRP.

I made my own with a piece of veg tanned 3x50 from tandy leather. I made sure I got a smooth all over piece and asked the guy what to condition it with. He said neat foot oil and so I got some then he gave me a sample of this Australian waxy stuff. I don't remember what it was called. I put the waxy stuff on first because that's what he said and buffed it in like I was shining shoes. He said use the neets foot as needed so I haven't really used it to much maybe once or twice. It already had a hole punched in the top for it to hang in the store so I put one of those carabiner clips through and cut the leather to desired length. For the linen component I took an old cheapo ebay strop and glued linen to it and it works great I also but this on the carabiner. It ain't pretty but it really works. I used a pumice stone to thin the strop by sanding the flesh side. Cost me 40 bucks and there's enough material there for 2-3 strops

Good thread!


I have one/some question/s on leather to strops: How thick in cross section the leather must be? Thicker is better or is useless? (i have a piece 30cm x 60cm x 5mm from ebay).

Thanks.

Typically, leather is measured by weight in ounces. You can find a conversion chart on google pretty easy, the weight is effectively a measure of thickness nowadays.

5mm is thick. If it's tooling leather, it's going to be relatively stiff and unforgiving. I don't know what's best for strops myself, but I can guess that 5mm is going to be too stiff and any inconsistencies in the surface are going to effect the blade.

I wonder if tension while stropping can compensate for thinner leather. In any case, 5mm is pretty darn heavy duty, suited for shoe souls and medieval armor. Sanding or, if you have a means, splitting the leather will reduce the thickness. Don't take anything off of the smooth side if you thin it! The grain (smooth side) is very thin and will be immediately marred or removed.

Originally Posted by Sirnanigans

Alright, yes, this question is everywhere. However, it's fragmented and usually suffers from variable and opinionated replies, so in my own interests and for the benefit of future DIYers, I would like to ask a more complete and comprehensive question to find more complete answers.

Obviously the dimensions and type of the strop depend on the blade, but what of the materials used to create the strop? I see three primary materials: leather, polishing compound, and backing (optional?). Not one bit, the actual stropping surface of Vintage strops averages about 16 inches long the width back then was from 1.5 inches to 2.75 inches many newer strops are 3 inches (Does not includes handles and the extra length of the old Barber strops without handles designs) These strops were used on razors from 3/8 to 12/8 that we know of and multiple edge lengths

What kind of leather is appropriate for a quality strop? Tooling (veg tanned)? Full grain or top grain? All of them just so long as they are quality leather and present no surface imperfections

What weight of leather? 3oz, 5oz, 11oz?! Should the flesh side by sanded for consistency? Yes to no surface imperfection,, the weight (thickness) will vary between leathers and the type of strop

Will tooling the leather ruin the strop? Obviously embossing will, but what of stamping and other decorative modifications? NO surface imperfections in the area that the razor touches

Should the leather be conditioned? Neatsfoot oil? To what extent? Depends on the leather you chose, but in general no condintioners should be approached from a "Less is better attitude" and only used when genuinely needed fro reconditioning purposes.. A good plam rubbing before use should be sufficient for new strops..

What kind if polishing compound(s) ought to be used? None? Jeweler's rouge? Two grades, one on either side? None on your everyday strop, whatever you want on your "Pasted Strop" this are separate strops

Should the compound be periodically reapplied or well infused to start and left alone? Very rarely on your pasted strop I re-paste mine about every 500 razors

Is a backing necessary? Linen? Do you use different compounds on it? No, many of us use linen but it is YMMV

An answer to any of these questions is greatly appreciated. Keep in mind that the intention is to make a working strop, not a piece of perfection. I am aiming for a B- in quality, not an A+, so please avoid opinions against less than perfect materials.

For the price of a commercially sold strop and half a day of my time, I can make a working strop and have quality leather, polishing compound, and other materials left over for future projects. Clearly that's the best option in my opinion.

Sorry just re-read that and had to shake my head ie : For the cost of a commercially made strop you will have a working strop made to the right length and standards to begin stropping today, and not have to make one" The leftovers well that is another thought I guess

The problem in your post is that, many of the answers you seek are tied to the Strop leather that you are going to choose , so before we can answer directly you have to choose, we can only suggest, but you have to choose..this is why the answers you are seeking seem vague and hard to nail down, basically "You are so new, that you don't know what you don't know"

I suggest you start with a good Veg Tanned leather, 6-9 oz weight

Good luck from there

Originally Posted by Sirnanigans

Typically, leather is measured by weight in ounces. You can find a conversion chart on google pretty easy, the weight is effectively a measure of thickness nowadays.

5mm is thick. If it's tooling leather, it's going to be relatively stiff and unforgiving. I don't know what's best for strops myself, but I can guess that 5mm is going to be too stiff and any inconsistencies in the surface are going to effect the blade.

I wonder if tension while stropping can compensate for thinner leather. In any case, 5mm is pretty darn heavy duty, suited for shoe souls and medieval armor. Sanding or, if you have a means, splitting the leather will reduce the thickness. Don't take anything off of the smooth side if you thin it! The grain (smooth side) is very thin and will be immediately marred or removed.

Thanks for the answer!

The one i bought is this here: ★ Natural VEG Tan Leather Off Cut 4 5mm Thick Available in s M L XL UK Stock | eBay

Maybe i can use it to a paddle strop?

EDIT:

I just found a conversion chart and it's something arround 12 ounces!!!