Thread: Leather Strops - are they a sham?

Originally Posted by Bang0Bang00

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My last shave I got frustrated with the pull of the razor so I did 40 laps on the suede with CrOx again and it was almost back at that super sharpness I experienced before. I think I'm going to see how far I cab stretch this solution. I also lightened the press on the paddle strop to almost nothing and that seems to help.

First I hear of CrOx>CBN>FeOx. I'm guessing that's Iron Oxide? I'll have to check it out.

Nifty, would your suggestion work on a synthetic stone?

No.
Not an interesting question for modern synthetic hones. It is too easy to get
a better one.

I do have an old Carborundum 101 barber hone that reflects light a bit because the
grains are flattened from use.

These three CeOx, CBN, FeOx are polishing materials.
The iron oxide FeOx is old as dirt. Rust or even bog iron would be pulverized roasted and suspended
in water. The coarse material would settle out quickly, very fine material can stay suspended for days.
The very fine material is then collected by decanting the slightly muddy water and then allowing it to evaporate or
by flocculation with something like salt or alum and filtration. The same is done with clay for ceramics.

From a polishing site...
BLACK = Emery Compound, a coarse abrasive material for removal of scratches, pits, paint, rust etc. Abrasive: Emery.
BROWN = Tripoli compound used for general purpose cut and color on most soft metals. Abrasive: Rotten stone.
WHITE = Blizzard compound, used for color and final finish of harder metals, has a cutting action. Abrasive: white aluminium oxide.
BLUE = A dryer, almost greaseless wheel - designed to polish without any cutting action. Safe on thin plates. Use on its own wheel.
GREEN = Used exclusively for Stainless Steel. Abrasive: green chromium (III) oxide.
RED = Jeweller’s Rouge, designed to polish without any cutting action. Safe on thin plates. Use on its own wheel. Abrasive: Iron(III) oxide.

Nifty, you're like a gold mine of information. Thanks! I appreciate the contextual facts immensely. The iron thing is pretty cool! Old tech but new information to me!

I finally read the 7 pages of the guy repairing the smiling razor with the wonky spine. My goodness, lots of details which I'll be sure to look back into, for reference. It certainly made me want a usb microscope though.

I had a bit of an "ah-ha" moment after sharpening a few of a friend's kitchen knives when I was on vacation.

1. My bevel on my straight razor isn't perfect. The toe needs slightly more work to match the heel. About 80-90% of the bevel looks nice and even on both sides, just the toe is slightly out. Probably my technique that failed me there. .
2. 400 grit + CrOx on denim = shaving sharp on a kitchen knife.
Ex: https://youtu.be/jKMFPpNxIbM
3. I think this is because of the "foil edge" created by sharpening creating a burr and then sharpening the opposite side.
4. If I'm correct about the foil edge, then...
5. Knives and straight razors really are more similar than different AND
6. Steel composition and heat treat should have as much an affect on a straight razors edge as a knife's edge.
7.Knives make great backup straight razors, apparently.
8. Given the prices of premium razors, I'm tempted to buy a knife with a fancy steel and grind it into a hollow ground straight razor, just to see what happens. Hopefully someone's done this already?

Oh, and imperfect bevel or not, I am consistently finding a wicked sharp edge off of the CrOx compared to leather.

Originally Posted by Bang0Bang00

Oh, and imperfect bevel or not, I am consistently finding a wicked sharp edge off of the CrOx compared to leather.

So what happens when you take that wicked sharp edge off your CrO & then strop it on leather ?

The shave changes after I leather strop. The edge seems to have less bite, though slightly smoother, I find I have to use more force to pull through the hairs. When it's fresh off the CrOx, I have to apply minimal force because it slices like mad. Any pressure and I go from shaving to cutting pretty quick.

Stropping = smooth

That's one very true fact. To me the more laps on the strop, the smoother the shave. There's a science to why it works.
Glad you got a great shave and found out it is worth the time

When a razor tugs the first thing I try is 15-20 laps on CrOx then 50 laps linen and 70 laps leather. That usually makes things right again.

As far as that synthetic Chinese hone goes, it probably isn't good enough for straight razors, I would look for a three line Swaty or similar highly rated vintage barber hone, they are usually in the 10k+ range or for more $$ a Naniwa 12k all will work as a finisher and are very consistent in results

20-50-70. Hmm. I'll give that a shot and see how it works. Personally, I like the bite it gets straight off the CrOx. I'm hunting for the Feather-like sharpness of their double edge razors. Those blades are amazing!

You're right, I should get a Naniwa.
It looks like there's Chosera, Specialty and normal all in the 10-12k range. I remember someone telling me the specialties were the hardest and hence best for straight razors.

Thoughts?

Pretty picture of the thin 12k specialty stone. https://cdn.shopify.com/s/files/1/07...g?v=1443727094

You will be very happy with a Naniwa 12K. It does a great job at refreshing the edge

Heck I strop 50 linen, 75 suede and 125 leather before each shave. Then 25 on linen after.
Give it a shot, I think you'll enjoy the shave much more. Even with out the suede it is a very smooth shave

I dunno. At this point, I'm pretty convinced leather rolls the apex.

Originally Posted by Bang0Bang00

I dunno. At this point, I'm pretty convinced leather rolls the apex.

only if the leather isn't taught enough or you're using to much pressure