Thread: Loom Strops/Slack

You know Jimmy, I always improve the performance of my razors in relation to the HHT. I hone up to HHT-2 or 3 and strop up to 4 or 5. 2 things seemed to really improve my stropping:

1. Using TM linen as a routine component in my stropping. I have attributed it to the material, but this thread is making me wonder if that is only part of the difference. The fact that it is thin and deflects more easily than leather may contribute some to that

2. Being a bit firm with my razor (not pushing down but using my fingers to make sure that the edge maintains its proper position on the strop. I still keep the strop relatively taut, but I have loosened my grip a bit. I found it really interesting that Alan started a thread about that not long ago.

BTW, this is one of my favorite threads to read in quite some time. Thanks guys!

I know what you mean Paul. For me if I am going to get HHT it will be after stropping 9 times out of 10 rather than after honing. I also like Tony's linen and it is so much softer than the vintage stuff. Some of that is downright stiff, especially if it is NOS. The SRD fabric is great too IME. I've had real good luck with that. I know some guys are partial to leather only but I am a believer in the linen or fabric component first. I'm going to keep experimenting with this more and less pressure and less strokes.

Mentor types, with this advocacy of decreased tension or less than taut canvas and leather, you guys may encourage me to become a sloppy stropper - heaven forfend.

To help heaven in this defense, if I put my strop in front of a mirror or put a mirror behind my strop, how much deflection should I be aiming for? A half inch? Five eights of an inch? Thirteen thirty twos? A hint, a clue would be so greatly appreciated.

For me, it's very similar to Seraphim's video in the wiki Here (maybe not quite that loose, but pretty similar)

Jimmy, I think the big thing with the linnen is how abrasive/rough it is.. Most things clean out the oxidation on the fine edge of the razor, the linen SAND BLASTS it out IMO/IME

My standard stropping is 30 linen to clean, 40 nylon to smooth, 50 Latigo to align and 50-60 Horsehide to polish/finish... At least, that's how it goes in my mind :P

I've tried other things, but that gets my best results... I'm not sure if my logic is sound, that each step does the action I've related to it... But it damn well works AMAZING!

(Those four components are all TM, I'm working on an equivallent SRD rotation of Herringbone Cotton, Webbed Fabric, Premium IV-Bridle (or maybe SRD Black Latigo) and then Premium I (Awesome stuff) as the finisher... It's a work in progress, but from what I've tried so far -a brief hands on with Lynn's Premium I- It has some of the best results I've ever had.) (Those guys at SRD make some serious strops! )

Rich, yes, that video is a good example of deflection.

So, would this stropping be better than if the user put the strop flat on a table?

Why isn't he making a better effort to produce less deflection?

Why isn't he making a better effort to produce more deflection?

Or is this user producing the perfect amount of deflection?

Originally Posted by Bruce

Mentor types, with this advocacy of decreased tension or less than taut canvas and leather, you guys may encourage me to become a sloppy stropper - heaven forfend.

To help heaven in this defense, if I put my strop in front of a mirror or put a mirror behind my strop, how much deflection should I be aiming for? A half inch? Five eights of an inch? Thirteen thirty twos? A hint, a clue would be so greatly appreciated.

There are two variables pressure and deflection. Deflection by itself
is not enough information (tension + deflection).

Try this general thought problem/ idea: Tie a 12 ounce can of beans
in an old sock with a bit of cord and run the string over a door knob.
Tie on the strop and pull just hard enough to lift the can an inch (2.54 cm)
off the ground. Now strop with one quarter of an inch deflection on the
strop and shave test.

Swap out the 12 ounce can for an 8 ounce can then a 5 ounce
tuna can and stick with the quarter of an inch strop deflection (~1cm).
The sock is to keep from scratching the door. The can should not
be jumping up and down as you strop. The hand holding the strop
should be pliant enough, same as if the strop was bolted to a wall
or barber chair.

After exploring various can weights of tension vary the deflection.

If handy, a fish scale might also be used to ball park quantify tension.

Above I said: There are two variables pressure and deflection" which
is not true. Another harder to quantify variable is the stiffness of the
strop and the resultant bend radius at the point that the strop and
sharp edge contact each other, lots more.... but to steal from
another thread this might address the "low hanging fruit" and promote
more "synergy" in the discussion of this "process".

nifty,

You're absolutely right. I also should have tormented the mentors with this factor. Yup, presssure and tenssssion.

Mea culpa

Originally Posted by AFDavis11

Rich, yes, that video is a good example of deflection.

So, would this stropping be better than if the user put the strop flat on a table?

Why isn't he making a better effort to produce less deflection?

Why isn't he making a better effort to produce more deflection?

Or is this user producing the perfect amount of deflection?

Great questions... IMO, they don't have a "right" answer because we have to consider the pressure. For example this