Paul-As long as we're back on that dead horse and trying to ride it lol, yours is an interesting analogy to the pyramid, I think: people who play music by ear vs. classically-trained and relying on sheet music only. Our terminology is a little different: you refer to a system versus a method, whereas I talk about formula honing versus diagnostic honing. And I would lose a bet if it only works on Norton water-stones. I feel certain it would work on Naniwa and other stones, and maybe even better; it's just that 10 years ago, that Norton kit with the 4/8 k, 220/1k, flattening stone and pond was what all us new guys were getting.
I think it's cool that you are opening yourself up to learning new things about honing. Been doing it for 9 years myself, and I learn something new every time I sit down with some razors and stones. One of my bedrock beliefs as a teacher is that you're never done learning, about anything! (especially once you really go down the rabbit hole of natural finishers). If you're like me, you get bored easily, and ever so often you have to try that sexy new rock all the guys are talking about. For example, I was all about burnished Arkies for awhile, then I discovered the Zulu Grey (about 5 years after everyone else lol!). UPS Tracking says that aircraft carrier primitive cut black Arkie I ordered from Dan's is supposed to arrive tomorrow, so I feel certain that my Zulu will become the redheaded stepchild for awhile again.
But another cool aspect to that is that IME you will come back to a long-neglected hone with new skills that you've acquired since the last time you used it, and your edges will be that much better. I've had this happen several times.
If you really want to move beyond the pyramid and play by ear on that Norton 4/8k, watch a bunch of videos (as I still do!), and
assuming a properly set bevel from the 1k level, listen/watch/feel for when you're "done" on the 4k. Stroke counts can't tell you that (though about 45 seems to be my usual ball-park), but as you feel your blade gradually smooth out and under-cut water all the way across in both directions, you will be close. Then, as Marty suggests, lightly "kill" the edge on the side of your hone and do 10-15 more ultra-light laps. Some of us even like to strop off of each stone; assuming good technique, it can't hurt. I will also go out on my sunny deck with my Belomo 10x loupe and look at the edge after each stone if I really want to see what I'm doing at each stage.
Then, on the 8k look for similar signs, but of course your bevel planes will be near mirror polish, and your final laps should be ultra smooth as that edge really slices under the water all the way across. Maybe 25-45 strokes depending on steel hardness and any problem areas is a good ball-park. Kill it again, another 10-15 whisper light strokes, and strop.
That edge should be at least as good as your pyramid edge, and probably better once you've done it a few times. Then on to your 10-12k synthetic if you have one. I often like to shave-test a new edge after this point and see where I'm at. I almost always then finish on some kind of natural for smoothness.
But honestly, I enjoy the learning journey and the process as much as the finished edges. And finally, I'll just say this: Unless you hone for others (and take their money), don't worry too much what a bunch of internet know-it-alls (including me!) think of your honing methods. Another analogy: I like my $75 single-malt scotch with a few ice cubes; I paid my hard-earned money for it, and will drink it how I damn well please, though it makes some malt snobs cringe. Even more so with razors and honing. After all, there is nothing more personal than putting an edge you created on your skin to shave with. Enjoy the process, learn to trust your instincts on the hones, and have fun doing it. "There are many roads to sharp."